Thursday 2nd February

| BY Garth Spencer

Raf Simons: Menswear AW17

As you probably know, Mr Simons has taken over the Calvin Klein, showing next week. How appropriate, then, that last night he showed his men’s collection in the city of New York. Exploring his new life and new world. The masculine collection was grown up yet not mature. Cropped stretched knits with I HEART NY seemed worn in, adored by its former owners. Maybe from a different time or with a former president. Utilitarian military shirts were oversized, creating a kind of naive army of boys. Mr Simons is never shy to create an architectural silhouette but in New York this college boy of a former season had come of age. He had taken his dads crombie coat and moms Dior beaded necklace and left Paris for good. Coming to America to be a man. And got through that US border before the laws of old ideas changed the world again.