Sacai: Menswear AW17
In a season where hybrid garments – half pac-a-mac, half suit blazer; a cross between a jumper and a coat – are high ion the agenda, Chitose Abe was in her element. Hybrids have extended to the catwalks themselves too, with menswear and womenswear walking step-in-step. Abe showed that too, blending her boys and girls in their cross-bred clothing on her autumn/winter 2017 catwalk. She called the collection “Cut Ups” but could’ve called it “Cut-n-Paste”, because that’s her approach in a nutshell. This time around, there were a few garments she didn’t apply her trademark technique to – straight up-and-down overcoats in papery gabardine with a high-fastened collar that were plain, simple and beautiful. It showed a fresh maturity for Abe, a new slant to her work and proves that, now she’s established the meaning of Sacai in both the mens and womenswear schedules, she can cut against the grain and experiment a bit more. That cutting lifted her – and us – up.
Photographs by Jason Lloyd-Evans