Sunday 24th June

| BY Richard Gray

Sacai: Menswear Spring/ Summer 2019

Nike was on fire at Sacai just. The Japanese brand has got pally with the American sports giant to create an old-school-looking running shoe, quite Cortez – can I get back to you on the exact style – with a wedge insert above the heel. This jutted out. It’s a clever move from Sacai and Nike as fashion’s mega brands all fight to create their own built-up sneakers and all part of the “dad-trainer” phenomenon: an exercise in printing cash. This was a Nike clear steer away and move on from the bulbous prohibitively expensive sneakers, which have dominated the fashion market for the past two years. Collaborations really are the way for brands these days and the Japanese do it better. Sacai linked up with US heritage brand Pendleton as well. Their Native American check was everywhere and spliced and cut and re-sewn into new forms and shapes which connected with MA1’s which connected after that to denim jackets. Side-zips instead of seams on various tops were left open and the zips made curvilinear lines and held shapes in place; some of these zips became hems. The patterns for these must be insanely complicated. The workroom management too. What goes to which seamstress when? Is it a denim jacket or an MA1? Is that Pendleton patch glued or stitched? Does it go there or there? Why can’t we wear those trainers now not in six months?

Photographs by Jason Lloyd-Evans