Thursday 21st June

| BY Richard Gray

Y/Project: Menswear Spring/ Summer 2019

Since Y/Project designer Glenn Martens won the esteemed ANDAM Grand Prize in 2017, the fashion world’s eyes have been laser-focused on the growth and creative clout of this cool Parisian brand. Martens has firmly cemented himself at the house, which cleverly fuses bold architectural shapes, whilst seamlessly melding or jarring classic masculine and feminine lines and mixing unlikely fabrics together as one. For spring, a series of tailored jackets and coats over which, Martens layered a stretch voile-cum-jersey. The effect was one of shape-shifting and oddness. As the show progressed, the lines became ever more exaggerated: shoulders broader, a flared front-fold pant cut as sharp as a flick-knife. Things got damn ugly in a beautiful way with “outside market” denim washes on tricksy and wide “raver jeans” and a super-tight cagoule top, plus a series of seriously mad “badly dressed dad-shoes”, which we loved. More tricksy were a pair of cotton pyjama bottoms worn over trousers and shell suit bottoms over jeans. So far so odd, and so damn good. Credit to some seriously next-level styling. Obsessed!

Photographs by Jason Lloyd-Evans