Friday 13th January

| BY Jack Moss

Z Zegna: Menswear AW17

Z Zegna was giving us skiwear. Skiwear circa 1972. Or similar surrounding years. This was not least because the press release told us so, but also because, on entering the Z Zegna space at Pitti Uomo yesterday, there was a thick layer of snow across the floor. Which was, luckily, fake.  Lucky because Florence is already about -30 degrees (or something) and my body did a bit of a recoil at having to enter an ice-filled cavern. Anyway. It was warm. And filled with mannequins. Ski themed ones. Sporty types. Because this was, again according to the release, the melding of performance wear with Z Zegna’s future-facing tailoring expertise. Seventies outdoor wear through the filter of 2030, basically – high polo-neck jumpers in orange and green, short puffa jackets, suiting worn with heavy walking boots and pulled up socks. But made futuristic because of the precise fabrications used  – mostly through the use of Technomerino across the collection in the form of silks, jersey and, the piece de resistance, a ski suit. Drowning in merino, basically. Fabulous. “To enhance the juxtaposition of tailoring and performance-wear, we created a new wardrobe that meets the active lifestyle of contemporary men while emphasizing a clean, linear and luxurious aesthetic” said Alessandro Sartori of the collection. And he’s the man showing his first mainline Ermenegildo Zegna collection since returning to the brand this evening in Milan. Stay tuned.