Balmain: Resort 2018
Is this Olivier Rousteing’s “En Marche” moment? Yeah, let’s go with that. Given his allegiances to Mr. Macron, and more importantly, Mrs. Macron (we’re ob-sessed) who he’s been dressing top-to-toe in Balmain, he is “more proud than ever about the choices that France is making.” Which means, for his Resort 2018 collection, and following his SS18 menswear, Balmain’s gone very French. No bad thing – this latest offering has drawn on those quintessential elements of Frenchness – marinière and Breton stripes, here paired with heavy tweeds accented with chains and intricately ornate jackets that take their inspiration from tapestries. There’s a solidity to it, a robustness that has a whiff of a military inspiration in those heavy-shouldered jackets, all beautifully undercut with a delicacy and subtlety that is provided by smatterings of fringed silk and lace embellishments. Mr. Rousteing has just finished designing costumes for the Paris Opera Ballet, and the signs are here for all to see; punctuating the collection with tutus in white, pink and blue.