Monday 2nd March

| BY Helena Fletcher

032c: Ready-to-Wear AW20

Titled Party Girl: a proposal for brutal elegance conceived in Berlin, Germany, the 032c AW20 collection got the lyrics of Eddie Murphy’s 1985 single Party All the Time firmly stuck in our heads. Although conceived in Berlin, this wasn’t so much Berghain or Griessmuehle techno-attire but simply sophisticated high-impact glamour, with fabrics and finishes that you’d want to keep as far away as possible from flying drinks and sticky dance floors. With elegantly elevated apparel, Party Girl was an exciting official entrance of 032c ready-to-wear into showing biannually within the fashion cycle.

Playing with subverting preconceptions of functional and formal attire, exploring juxtapositions in texture, tailoring and trompe l’oeil layering, the beauty was in the detailing. Ethically sourced fabrics feature throughout the collection, utilising both technological advancements and applications of traditional heritage production methods on contemporary fabrics. In addition to the swathes of leather, well-cut canvas and show-sealing Swarovski crystal embellishments comes the use of a fur alternative, GOTS-certified developed by the German teddy bear brand Steiff. Realised as a coat, blazer, skirt and dress, it was both conscious and cute! The collection also introduced 032c ready-to-wear’s debut line of women’s heels designed by Francesco Russo, as well as a pair of Swarovski-encrusted adidas Campus trainers.

Showcased in Lafayette Anticipations, a space in the heart of Le Marais recently renovated by Rem Koolhaas/ OMA, the presentation was intentionally static. Inviting guests to get up close and personal with the collection with mannequins were posed in the pieces ready for a detailed inspection. “The presentation is formal and deliberately boring – the antithesis of a fashion spectacle”, explained Maria Koch, 032c’s RTW creative director. “We simply want people to really see and experience the clothing.” Simple and successful, sign us up for personal orders.

Photographs by Max von Gumppenberg.