Tuesday 14th January

| BY Dino Bonacic

A-Cold-Wall: Menswear AW20

New decade, New A-Cold-Wall. However cheesy the mantra might sound, it definitely rubbed off Samuel Ross the right way. There were plenty of firsts in his yesterday’s show. Firstly, it was Ross’ debut on the schedule of Milan Fashion Week, which is having a sort of a renaissance this season. AW20 also marked the move of A-Cold-Wall from a streetwear pioneer and into what’s next for them. After five years of leading the way for those who found art in trainers and trackies, Ross took a sharp turn into classictown where he found the codes that inspired his latest collection.

A more mature and considered way of men’s dressing was on his mind as he re-imagined tradition. If scrolled through without paying much attention, the individual looks from the A-Cold-Wall AW20 show be assigned to some big, heritage Italian luxury house. But it’s the way they were put together that is so quintessentially Samuel Ross. Sculptural, poetic and with a bold sense for colour, the garments were elevated into manhood that could only be traced to this young designers. Does this mean all hypebeasts will now start wearing leather utility jackets, cropped formal pleated trousers and knitted top with fringed trailing behind them? One can only hope. Here’s to new beginnings!

Photographs by Jason Lloyd-Evans

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