Friday 7th June

| BY Paul Toner

Astrid Andersen: Menswear SS20

As we look at the rich schedule of the rich LFWM (kicking off today), there’s something is missing. For the first time in almost a decade, Astrid Andersen isn’t showing on-schedule. Ahead of the curve in terms of elevating formulaic sportswear silhouettes, Andersen has had her finger firmly on the pulse when it comes to streetwear’s integration into the luxe-menswear market. But for SS20, the designer is slowing things down. Studio listens of James Blake’s spacey melodics and the candy-coloured world of artist Do Ho Suh have inspired the Danish designer to take a breather – honing in on the intricacies of her craft. That’s not to say the clothes here are in anyway tepid, or drowsy in fact. Silk shorts and shirts carry a boyish energy, with chunky stripes nodding to the PE kit you once wore in primary school. Jersey-full tracksuits in muted blues and pale greys are stamped in a faded leopard print – cropped just above the ankle so you can still flash your kicks.

It’s when Andersen drifts away from her sporty staples, however, when her retrained design ethos comes to light. Organza anoraks in a charcoal-cum-inky blue gradient, layer oversized formal shirting and sheer trousers which droop to the floor. Astrid Andersen may be taking a slower approach this season, but in no way is she falling behind. Slow and steady always wins the race.