Monday 10th June

| BY Dino Bonacic

Bianca Saunders: Menswear SS20

In the case of emerging designers, constant reinvention often becomes a burden disabling their true talent to come through. Hype then turns into the main instrument these designers feed their ideas with, which can not only be dangerous for their business but also unsustainable for the industry as a whole. If we’re in constant search for something new, where do the rest come in?

Bianca Saunders is inadvertently working against this fashion hype syndrome, making collections that celebrate self-development and organic progress. “I do so much research so it doesn’t make sense to just leave it behind after the season ends,” she told us at her presentation. In 30 pieces she showed at the Discovery Lab within the Truman Brewery in Shoreditch (her most extensive collection yet), Saunders presented an accumulation of cuts, fabrics and techniques she acquired throughout the past year. Since her debut at LFWM exactly a year ago, the clothes look more elaborate and refined, but absolutely part of the same conversation. A big part of that is the fact Saunders is inspired by her close-knit community of friends and collaborators, her creative family who she sees as people she wants to dress. For SS20, it was the carefree approach of her friend Eldon Somers, who was one of the main subjects in her 2019 film Unravelling. During the day he’s suited, but then he changed into his going out frock and a whole new person comes out – the duality and fluidity between conservative tailoring and skimpy, sexy clothes worked so well together. Ruched shirting and super high-slit trousers – these clothes were risqué in a way not many menswear collections are. Thoughtful and elegant but with a bit of wink, wink. As Bianca Saunders carves out a niche for herself, don’t forget – slow and steady wins the race.