Saturday 15th February

| BY Paul Toner

Charlotte Knowles: Ready-to-wear AW20

Under a shock of strobe lights, the Charlotte Knowles army began to prowl.  They came armoured in brand signatures; bullet-proof vest-like harnesses were of plenty, as were the bodycon separates which have come to shape the designer’s fearless take on femininity. AW20 saw these girls do a little growing up. “I personally think this collection was a bit more mature,” said the designer alongside partner Alexandre Arsenault post show. “But we wanted to find a way of doing it our way, with that don’t fuck with me vibe to it.”

Outerwear was sharp: think sheepskin coats sliced beneath the breast and slender checked overcoats that slithered along the model’s form. There were also granny crochet shawls trimmed with dainty butterflies and wallpaper florals that coated T-shirt dresses.

With all that being said, the collection wasn’t short of libido. Prints were brash and rugged leathers were hot – particularly on a chocolate brown jacket that latched onto the pelvis and terrichoter trousers that laced right up the thigh. This season the brand’s synonymous slender silhouettes were catered to a more diverse range of body types, a move the design pair have wanted to do from the beginning but finally had the team and resources to do so. Watch out, this Charlotte Knowles army is only getting stronger.

Photographs by Jason Lloyd-Evans.