Saturday 19th September

| BY 10 Magazine

Ed Marler: Ready-to-wear SS16

For Ed Marler’s spring presentation, it was all about tribe of lost wanderers, stranded in the post-apocalyptic atmosphere of a leaf strewn back street in Soho. Which felt quite apt actually, because with the hoards of fashion types crowding Brewer Street, Soho did seem a bit like the end of the world yesterday. According to Ed, the idea behind the collection was that the models were wearing only what they could find. And what had they found in London’s dark recesses? Well there were crowns. Big, fuck off crowns. No wimpy tiaras here. Grand, ball gown dresses in crumpled taffeta – a little disheveled, the corsetry loosened. Can we say deconstructed rococo? Well, we just did. These were fallen, fabulous women, dark and romantic. But there was something playful about it all too – the trim of tinsel on one of the jackets, a pair of sequinned trousers that fell into pools at the ankle. A lace bra cup rather handily doubled as a knee pad. Well, if this is what end of the world clothing looks like, can we just hurry up and get it over with? And what was the hymn for these opulent post apocalyptic worshippers? ABBA, SOS. Slowed down to half speed. Ed said it was the only CD they had left. Now that’s a religion we can get on board with.

Photographs by Caoimhe Hahn, courtesy of Ed Marler