Sunday 16th June

| BY Richard Gray

Emporio Armani: Menswear SS20

The Armani business model is a lesson in diffusion. The various lines retain their own specific identity and appeal; each one speaking to its own specific audience – but these customers cross-purchase. It’s long been the way. For the master tailor’s second line Emporio, presented at his show space in Milan, a showcase of his studio’s nouse and skill in developing next generation fabrications. The lab-like approach to new cloths translated into high-shine and weather-resistant coats and outerwear. One look, a coat, had a parachute-like fabric, complete with harness; this ballooned out behind the model.

Elsewhere, peg-like trousers came with shiny and super-luxurious fabric jackets. And a shadow-herringbone and looser suit is *that* smart answer to warm weather luxury dressing. This “solution-driven” approach to a man’s wardrobe, is where Emporio Armani excels: all kinds of quality everything for any occasion. For evening (or day) beautiful and washed silks with a tonic look came in various shades of green. A bright pink belted voluminous summer suit was best. It’s this languorous look of summer dressing, seen on fashion press and buyers in town now (it’s an Armani signature), which is breaking through for next spring in men’s fashion. It all starts, here.

Photographs by Jason Lloyd-Evans.