GmbH: Menswear SS20
The flashy zips, bodycon tees and bulge-featuring trousers in vinyl. If you asked where is the most probable place to encounter GmbH clothes in action, the answer would probably be one of Berlin’s many sex clubs. That’s if you asked the question prior to their yesterday’s show. With SS20, the streetwear golden boys Serhat Isik and Benjamin Alexander Huseby elevated their ideas of futuristic streetwear and departed into a full-on exercise in modern tailoring. Yes, the (fashion) world has slowly been moving on from sweatshirts and trackies for a while now, but it seems particularly poignant when a brand who is most known for those things decides to switch things up and focus on elegant eveningwear. Ready for the ball, the GmbH girls and boys still stayed within their lane of a sex-positive outlook on dressing. They just now have some much more glam events to attend.
That’s not to say this collection was a departure from the traditional codes of the house – jersey, denim and signature prints were still prominent, making sure we don’t forget at a GmbH show. But that opening look – a monastic white coat with a matching harness and trousers. That was pure opulence (you earn errythin’!). And the best part is, their opulence doesn’t come at a price for the world. With a completely vegan show in terms of fabrications, Huseby and Isik made a political statement of making environmentally-friendly luxury. Instead of leather, the shoes and accessories were actually made out of apple pulp. But whatever the textile, their clothes were just solid pieces we want to have in our wardrobes for next season. Guiltless shopping – that’s the GmbH way.
Photographs by Jason Lloyd-Evans.