Gucci: Pre-Fall 2020
Just as we thought Alessandro Michele was changing his direction and heading fp a more subdued version of his more-is-more collages of historical references, there he goes and proves us wrong. One thing is for sure – you can never know what to expect from Michele. For Pre-Fall 2020, the answer is – EVERYTHING. Both literally and in that very drag way (read: everythaaang!), the Italian megabrand’s latest outing was all about the abundance of ideas, mashed together in silhouettes that could be made for the glamour queens of now or 50 years ago. While some of the elements poured in from his SS20 show which was decidedly more muted than his previous ones, the Pre-Fall 2020 season adds a sense of outlandish character, enhanced by the images that serve as the collection’s lookbook. Captured by legendary street photography pioneer Bruce Gilden around the streets of Rome, photos allow for full characterisation of the personalities, just like in Gilden’s famous close-ups.
Rich colours in every shade of the rainbow come in a variety of silhouettes and fabrics – just like you’d want from Gucci. Some bodycon, others totally away from the form, each of the the garments are developed like souvenirs of the past, made for the future. While at a glance, you could imagine it as a costume wardrobe for Once Upon a Time… in Hollywood, you can absolutely understand the contemporary context for these clothes upon further inspection. For this occasion, your usual Gucci gang is joined by some real-life icons – actress, model and timeless beauty Benedetta Barzini brings a new meaning to werqing a sequinned gown, while activist and model who was one of the first to bring black beauty into mainstream fashion Bethann Hardison layers all the quintessential Gucci codes.
It’s almost impossible to think it’s only been about five years since Alessandro Michele took the reigns of the heritage house. The world has changed and the industry has grown into a very different environment, partially due to Michele himself. But this collection, for Pre-Fall 2020, is a prime example of the direction we’re heading to. Without the need for constant reinvention, the next decade is steadily growing to be the best one yet – at least at Gucci.
Creative Director: Alessandro Michele
Art Director: Christopher Simmonds
Photographer: Bruce Gilden
Hair Stylist: Alex Brownsell
Make Up: Thomas De Kluyver