Monday 14th September

| BY 10 Magazine

Hood By Air: Ready-to-wear SS16

Of all New York’s legions of new designers, none have kicked up quite the fuss elicited by Shayne Oliver’s Hood By Air, whose gender blending, trend defying garments punch hard and make their impact felt. All those knotted up panels of fabric, odd shoes and trance boy-girl proportions we’re seeing? They can be traced to Oliver. He didn’t invent them, but he does them better than most – while the deliberately ambiguous androgyny of his casting has motivated designers to include boyish girls – and quite a few outright boys – to spice up the Manhattan fashion scene. This time it was a detention scenario with badly-behaved deviants in mistreated uniforms and too much make-up. Ofsted would be horrified.

Photographs: Jason Lloyd-Evans