Sunday 1st March

| BY Claudia Croft

Junya Watanabe: Ready-to-wear AW20

A red light. Silence. Then the show started. We knew what the theme was – an image of Debbie Harry on the invite had given it away. Junya Watanabe paid tribute to this punk, new wave icon with an icon of his own: the leather biker jacket. It’s been a part of the Watanabe world since the beginning but this season he freely riffed on it. Never taking it literally, he morphed it into a leather buster, hung several together around the waist to create a paneered skirt and even shrunk it down to multiple mini backpacks all worn at once. It was inventive and ingenious but with plenty to buy and wear. Junya’s clever like that. The models in their bed head ‘Debbie’ wigs, smudged red lipstick and studded anklets channeled all of Harry’s defiance and glamour. Iconic.

Photographs by Jason Lloyd-Evans.