Saturday 14th September

| BY Dino Bonacic

Kiko Kostadinov: Ready-To-Wear SS20

When they previewed their SS20 collection via scans of collaborative footwear with Asics and Camper ahead of yesterday’s show, Laura and Deanna Fanning referenced the muse of astronomy Urania as the face of their moodboard for the season. But what did that inspiration look like when transformed into a contemporary wardrobe of the Kiko Kostadinov woman?

The classical draping of Grecian sculptures was the starting point in the construction of the collection. Still remaining with the graphic nature of their design signature, the layers and creases became enriched with every hue in the colour wheel. Some complimentary, others totally contrasting – the colour combinations were endless and inspirational, often breaking all those rules your mum tried to distill in you at an early age. The circle as an object of femininity appeared throughout. Rosie Grace Ward, the artist behind the set design in the show space, created miniature totems which the Fanning twins used both as jewellery and as part of the garments. Their new take on classical draping also led the duo into more of an eveningwear direction as they created dresses and twinsets that could be considered red-carpet ready. But the Kiko Kostadinov woman (yes, she’s a woman now) doesn’t really attend red carpets. She’s too busy with going to gallery openings and having a real job. Hence the chic-but-sensible shoe cupboard. 

Their wonderful knits had their moment to shine, but this was a collection for spring and summer. The volume seemed toned down, with a double-faced satin fabric carrying the weight as the primary fabric of choice. Once again, in every colour of the rainbow, and then some. But don’t thing Fannings’ work purely relies on colour – a full black look was as desirable as its garish counterparts. Rich, enthusiastic and fresh. We couldn’t choose a better collection to kick off our London Fashion Week SS20 experience.

Photographs by Jason Lloyd-Evans.