Wednesday 30th September

| BY Paul Toner

Kiko Kostadinov: Ready-to-Wear SS21

On a regular day, Laura and Deanna Fanning are inseparable. You will usually find the twin sisters shacked up in their studio, day-in, day-out, working on their latest womenswear collection for Kiko Kostadinov. Yet lockdown saw the two on opposite sides of the world – Deanna with their parents in Melbourne, with Laura remaining in London.

The time apart and slower working pace that arose from all those days stuck indoors offered the pair time to research, research and research some more. Constantly looking to evolve the innovative silhouettes and materials that shape their collections, the Fanning sisters began studying homespun house dresses and whimsy Victorian gowns, as seen through their postmodern lens.

Inspired by the bold graphics of the Pop Art movement, as well as the female magic in Wiccan ritual, the designers created smocked dresses and going-out tops in wispy layers of chiffon. Skirts and blouses are dotted with cut-out stars, worn with nylon knits and wraparound jumpers.

The collection was premiered in a multi-dimensional, interactive film akin to an old arcade game, as models walked in unified movements across a floating red felt island, inspired by the work of German artist Hito Steyerl. Some of the girls wore bracelets that look like ice-cubes (compacted with rare double pearls), others crystal-beaded house slippers. It was another cracking collection in the bag for this sister act.

Photography by Esther Theaker.