Monday 20th January

| BY Paul Toner

Ludovic de Saint Sernin: Menswear AW20

Everyone tackles break-ups differently. Most stay in bed and weep, others binge eat ice-cream or even write Grammy-winning songs. For Ludovic de Saint Sernin however, a relationship break-down towards the tail end of last year prompted the designer to create a rather cathartic collection that lavished in the dualities that comes with a trip back to the lonely heart’s club. Palais de Tokyo became somewhat of a heartbreak hotel yesterday afternoon, with a crumbled love heart emblem appearing on a ceramic chest and belt buckle, as well as being spun within a spider-web dress drenched in Swarovski crystals. The show notes spoke of the juxtaposition of strength and fragility that transpires after a break-up – embodied via the stark dichotomies between texture and colour. Semi-opaque tailoring in milky-white hues walked alongside asymmetric rugged leathers. Flashes of aubergine, magenta and carnation pink were particularly gorgeous, especially when coating body-hugging wools and slouched overcoats that came accented with Swarovski crystal lassos.

Despite AW20 coming at a time of heartache for the designer, there was no time to sit round in bed crying all day surrounded a mountain of used tissues. The slinky, sexy, ultra-femme clubwear that has defined the brand thus far was on full display. Boys came in barely-there bras and briefs, as well as a chorus of racy tank tops that were cut to slightly flash the mid-riff. This season, de Saint Sernin was also interested in superheroes – interweaving ceramic masks and leather gloves throughout. Think: Zorro, if only he was a regular at Chapter 10. Liberating menswear into a new dawn of unapologetic sensuality, if this is what a heartbreak hotel looks like, where do we check-in?

Photographs by Jason Lloyd-Evans.

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