Marc Jacobs: Ready-to-Wear SS20
And then there was one. Always at the pinnacle of spectacles, a Marc Jacobs show is the only one that could close out NYFW. Especially this season which, more so than ever before, felt like it was all about the experience rather than a blank catwalk at an undisclosed location with Iris by Goo Goo Dolls playing during the finale. It seems like New York designers are finally catching up with Europe in realising that a line-up of few great looks just isn’t enough anymore. But Marc Jacobs knows that. He’s been doing so much more for so many seasons, each of his shows pouring into trans-Atlantic conversations for the rest of the fashion month. After last night’s rhapsody, SS20 will surely be no different.
It all kicked off with a finale (a nod to his backwards show from SS08?) as the army of rainbow-clad girls and a few boys swarmed into the Park Avenue Armory. And then, look by look, they took the stage again. There wasn’t a recurring theme or a certain time period these people belonged to, but they were all unapologetically euphoric. It was happy fashion, a lot of it inspired by Marc Jacobs’ own sartorial choices that have been garnering attention for decades. He’s the man who wore Prada skirts with Hermès Birkin bags and arrived to the Met Gala in a revealing Comme des Garçons lace dress. He’s a lover of clothes and knows how to play with the performative act of dressing.
References of couture, both past and present, and contemporary costume design interpretations of 1970s came into the mix too. A one-legged pair of skinny jeans? Sure. A floral three-piece suit à la Brady Bunch with a matching Stephen Jones hat? Yes, please. This was a festival of colour, pattern, silhouette… Probably no better way to ease the world for London Fashion Week.