Wednesday 12th June

| BY Richard Gray

Marco De Vincenzo: Menswear SS20 (at Pitti Uomo)

If anybody were any doubt of the rude health of the menswear fashion market right now: a trip to Pitti is in order.

The twice-yearly menswear trade show has become a launch pad for both up-and-coming and established fashion design talent with its “guest designer” slot. This morning the womenswear designer and Istituto Europeo del Design fashion grad, Marco de Vincenzo, known for his incredible fabrications and body-conscious tailoring, showed his first ever menswear runway show.

The co-ed catwalk was packed with tech-y looking luxury cloths cut into super-easy jackets and some radically new trousers and shorts shapes. Some were cinched and high and various pairs of selvedge denim jeans – the waist so high it hugged the bottom of the models’ rib cage – were worn with see-through pink blouses. The wide concertina-pleat shorts were great too.

Those fabrics though: new pinching and pleating techniques (presumably retained their shape with some clever chemical after-treatment) nodded to the great Japanese designers; Fortuny and Grès as well. We must mention the sparkly and super-luxurious wool jackets. These were exceptional.