Monday 24th February

| BY Dino Bonacic

Marine Serre: Ready-to-wear AW20

“Everything we do is a sequel,” Marine Serre told us when explaining her SS20 campaign film. The final scene of the CGI-developed video sees one of Serre’s muses walking through deserted sandy dunes spangled in flames. That’s where her today’s show at Paris Fashion Week picks up. After the apocalypse for AW19, last season was about the emergence into the universe and adapting to the new environment. This time round, the humans from Serre’s universe have not only found alternative planets but also morphed themselves into living and breathing androids.

Held at the Cent Quatre cultural centre in the 19th arrondissement of Paris, not far from her brand’s HQ, Serre presented her AW20 show as a “pluriverse” of influences from the past, present and future, morphed to create a survival kit of a wardrobe. Poetic in her approach to ominous dressing, the French designer somehow let go of trying to battle nature and instead allow the planet to lead the way. “The moons will be your friends,” an eerie voiceover that served as the soundtrack went on as a trio of exuberant houndstooth coats walked out, both as a high-femme gown and a classic men’s double-breasted silhouette. 

What gives Serre a special power is that she always traces back to elements from her own past. Without ever resetting her ideas seasonally, she continues to develop them without ever accepting anything as perfect. Cocoon shapes returned, as did the signature moon crescent print, now shown through a distorted lens. Accessories played a big part in the collection, with water bottle pouches, calf-strap backpacks, micro versions of Serre’s Ball bag and some fabulous pool noodle-like velvet scarves. In her sustainable ways, a great deal of the collection used pre-existing materials and deadstock garments, with damask-patterned drapes and faux fur bed covers becoming stunning, body-hugging dresses. And nurturing the notion of the next generation of settlers, Serre returned to designing childrenswear after scratching the surface in SS19. Ready for that alternate scenario of a world falling apart, Marine Serre’s families looked ready to face the kind of challenges we’re all trying to deal with today.

Photographs by Jason Lloyd-Evans.