Wednesday 30th September

| BY Claudia Croft

Marine Serre: Ready-to-Wear SS21

Marine Serre has seen the future and it’s scary. The Joan d‘Arc of fashion’s sustainability movement is setting an inspiring example for big brands and consumers alike. Encoded into everything she makes is a positive reason to change. Be more Marine should be everybody’s mantra. For now, she soldiers on, buoyed by hyper-successful collaborations with Nike and counting Beyoncé and Adele as fans but the day she finally gets a big global house will be a fateful one for fashion. Fate.

That was her theme. Specifically Amor Fati – the Latin phrase to describe the belief everything that happens in life – good and bad – for a reason. She teased her show with series of dystopian sci-fi clips: the singer Sevdaliza suspended in a white clinical space, a group swathed in toxic smoke, a genderless figure laid out on a slab. All the characters are wardrobed by Serre, and as an exercise in pandemic chic, it’s fascinating.

There’s everything from post-apocalyptic utility wear in biodegradable nylon, or upcycled moiré, complete with an abundance of zippy pockets, body harnesses and clear visors. Power Ranger unitards promise freedom of movement. Tailoring is made form repurposed fabrics and even upcycled tapestry fabric. Covid-proof beaded balaclavas add a touch of glamour but otherwise, Serre is creating a hyper-functional modern wardrobe. This isn’t fashion as escapism. It’s wedded to the reality of anxious times.

Photography courtesy of Marine Serre. Film directed by Sacha Barbin and Ryan Doubiago.