MSGM: Menswear AW20
Stark red lights covering the venue, snippets from horror films on Instagram, and “HAUNTED” written on the invite. Even before the actual show started, it was clear that Massimo Giorgetti was feeling moodier than usual. “I am obsessed with Dario Argento. It was an honour to spend time with the Master, talking about his movies, his aesthetics, and his attitude to life,” explained Giorgetti in his show notes. Argento is an Italian film director known as the Master of the Thrill and was a revolutionary figure in the horror genre during the 1970s and 1980s, particularly in the giallo sub-genre known for its high-intensity twists and mysterious turns.
With a sinister soundtrack switching from anxiety to calmness, the MSGM boys and girls (there were six looks from the women’s Pre-Fall 2020 collection in the show) were dressed fit into the highly stylised worlds Argento’s films live in. These horror heroes and heroines wore raglan-sleeved coats and 1980s-esque tailoring in saturated hues. There was a childish look to them, intensified with scarves haphazardly wrapped around the models’ necks in that very sprezzatura way signifying Italian nonchalance. Coming in a whole variety of textiles and colours, coats were definitely Giorgetti’s main instrument in creating the elongated silhouette that dominated the show.
Adding a bit of graphic fun into the story were the artwork knits and button-up shirts covered in dark scenes taken from posters of Argento’s films, such as the 1971 cult flick The Cat o’ Nine Tails and the original Suspiria from 1977. And just like the film director’s best work, Giorgetti is recognised for his incredible use of colour – a particular standout is a shocking pink, which is turning out to be quite the shade of the season.
Photographs by Jason Lloyd-Evans.