Namacheko: Menswear SS20
Dilan Lurr has a great taste in cinema. First it was the Soviet SF art flick Solaris that took part in the moodboard for SS19, and now, for SS20, the Kurdish designer watched Koyaanisqatsi. An experimental human-less film from 1982 inspired a collection that was made to be lived in in 2020. Such is the power of creative inspiration. If looked at passingly, the latest, fifth season for Namacheko could be considered the simplest one yet. But Dilan and his sister Lezan’s (the duo work together on the brand) clothes are made to be inspected up close. That’s probably why they already have a dedicated fan base on the retail front.
Introducing a bigger womenswear offering than ever before, the Lurrs added another layer to their brand. And no, not just by extending into different categories, but by elevating the products that bare the Namacheko label. The opening section showed T-shirts – something the duo never really wanted to get into. But here they were, tees with multiple hemlines, created from scraps of materials used in previous collections. Crisp tailoring, something we already connect with the brand, was on top form, cinched by tabs and elongated with pockets and slashes, making an op-art view reminiscent of old Walter Van Beirendonck, but transformed into wearable matter. Suiting isn’t always created with movement in mind, but those that Namacheko offered definitely were. As always, some pretty haute craftsmanship was on display, showcasing the graphic landscapes of Koyaanisqatsi in the form of stellar colours and daring silhouettes. The blossom-like floppy hats added a bit of a comedic relief, but we could still imagine them in the next season’s lot of street-style pics. The final pieces, oversized strips of striped fabric interwoven into longline jumpers – these will most definitely make it onto the shelves on some of the coolest stores in the world. And there we will be too, queuing to get our own piece of Namacheko.
Photographs by Jason Lloyd-Evans.