Preen by Thornton Bregazzi: Ready-To-Wear SS20
Each season, in place of show notes, Justin Thornton and Thea Bregazzi provide a curated selection of books that represent both their reading list for the past six months and the influences on the collection we’re about to see. For SS20, the list included a book out of a Japanese manga series, Lonely Planet’s guide to Japan and two films – Kill Bill vol.1 and Sofia Coppola’s Lost in Translation. If this wasn’t a Preen show, we might have even been slightly worried – as we’ve seen plenty of times before, having a foreign culture as your inspiration for a fashion show can go very bad. But Thornton and Bregazzi have a refined way of designing – it’s never about appropriating someone else’s story, but using creative influences to produce their own. This season, it was about their personal memories of travelling to Japan: experiencing the country, meeting people and seeing things they’ve never seen before.
The collection also gave a nod to contemporary Japanese fashion. Without a kimono in sight, the silhouettes referenced archival works of Junya Watanabe and Rei Kawakubo, now transformed into the wardrobe of the Preen woman. The mega popular floral dresses overflowing with ruffles and ruches were there too, looking darker and moodier than ever before. Some of the fabrics they used came from deadstock, and will therefore be sold in limited amounts. The husband-wife duo also used a sustainable viscose material, contributing to the greater conversation that seems to be enveloping London Fashion Week. With things always changing so quickly on the fashion scene, it’s nice to know we can always count on Preen by Thornton Bregazzi to serve us a beautiful collection and something to talk about.
Photographs by Jason Lloyd-Evans