Sunday 23rd June

| BY Richard Gray

Sacai: Menswear SS20

In an exercise of considered dishevelment the Sacai designer Chitose Abe turned the suit inside and out and layered it at her SS20 show this morning in Paris. The normally unseen was now exposed to show its hidden beauty: striped silk linings and the folded back seams all on display. The inner-workings; the essential pipes and fittings of a suit were celebrated. And layered.

Suit jacket over suit jacket – one worn inside out. Trousers under shorts; shirts under shirts and so on…

Story 2: the army and panels of different army-khaki fabric were brought together to create jackets and trousers. One MA1 jacket – a house favourite – came with zips at the sides not seams. Then it turned black and goth or goth via rock ‘n’ roll with zebra stripe shirts and trousers. Desert island and palm-trees-prints even pineapples: all the summer getaway clichés motifs then came over-dyed in black. Sometimes pink; as if looking at the world through those cheapo-looking sunglasses tourists buy. A gingham print shirt with ombré bleed was exceptional. Trainers? After this summer’s Sacai x Nike collab-explosion a return to sandals and built-up shoes. Incredible shopping as usual.

Photographs by Jason Lloyd-Evans