Tuesday 1st October

| BY Dino Bonacic

Sacai: Ready-To-Wear SS20

Why find inspiration in one specific place when you can take the whole world as your main point of reference? Battling chaos of our society with beauty, Chitose Abe of Sacai decided to take a worldly approach to her SS20 collection. Her wonderful hybrids were brought to life with geographical maps printed atop whole garments, embroidered on trench coats, as 3D fringe with knitwear and even as handbags in the shape of the Earth. In the opening section of Abe’s latest outing, the maps were printed in technicolour, followed by her signature mish-mash wardrobe in neutral hues, balancing out the extremities in the form and silhouette. Wrap jackets are cinched with climbing rope belts, with clunky boots and sandals furthering the volume play. 

Sacai is always about balance and finding a way to control extreme ideas. This season, Abe decided to take the story to the next level, giving her take on optimism in this by messing things up and letting go of control. Layers and slashes, pleats and ruches. Without taking things too far, the Japanese designer succeeded in revitalising her inspiring ideas yet again. This collection proved a positive spirit doesn’t always have to consist of rainbows and smiles. Sometimes, a new take on a navy suit will do the trick.

Photographs by Jason Lloyd-Evans.