Emporio Armani: Menswear SS18
Why is pop starlet Shawn Mendes brandishing his wrist at us? Have we done something wrong? Oh no, he’s just got a nice new watch. Emporio Armani, natch. Touchscreen. Ouuu. Must just be showing it...
Why is pop starlet Shawn Mendes brandishing his wrist at us? Have we done something wrong? Oh no, he’s just got a nice new watch. Emporio Armani, natch. Touchscreen. Ouuu. Must just be showing it...
I wont lie, it took me two looks over this, Givenchy’s AW17 collection, with a strong feeling of deja vu before it hit me like a tonne of (red) bricks that this was Riccardo’s greatest...
There’s something of the Hitchcock heroine to this, Bottega Veneta’s AW17 offering. Something about a cinched waist and a pitched shoulder will give you that. Not quite Grace Kelly in Rear...
It began in what looked a bit like a theatre, erected in Gucci’s brand new office just outside of the city. A large purple curtain usually suggests so. Were we to be treated to some sort of...
Well known is our love of young talent. Minds out the gutter, please – we mean of the fashion design sort. And who has more young talent in the building than Central Saint Martins? It’s the...
And so to Season 5 of Mr West’s Yeezy fashion opus which took place in New York today, reasonably on time and in a reasonably close location, which thus made it something near to revolutionary....
Are we getting a touch of the Buffalo Bills from this, Ralph Lauren’s latest Purple Label collection, shown in NY yesterday? By which we are not referring to the killer in The Silence Of The...
This was about the neck. Or, rather, the covering of the neck. Because, on quick count, we have identified that 28 of the 34 looks here have some sort of chin tickling neckline. Roll-necks, zippy...
Just like a proper couture show should, Vetements followed tradition and ended in with a bride in virginal white. The rest though, as to be expected, veered from tradition and entered the realm of...
Correct me if I’m wrong, but to (possibly incorrectly) utilise a term learnt in GCSE English, is this not what one would call the breaking down of the fourth wall? The drawing back of the curtain?...
What better way to spend the penultimate show of Paris, and, in fact, menswear month in general, than with a dose of Thom Browne wackiness? Because this, his AW17 show, answered the important...
What’s that gamine creature coming towards us? A… woman? Yes, your eyes do not deceive you, that was a man and woman opening Paul Smith’s AW17 show today, trotting down the catwalk in...
Jonathan Anderson is very, very clever. He’s revived Loewe spectacularly, and speedily – in three years, it’s risen to the top of the fashion pile. The odd collages and juxtapositions are...
Junichi Abe’s Kolor is a masterful proponent of hybridising garments, mixing jackets and shirts and sweaters into twisty, seemingly complicated cross-breed without ever getting so knotted up the...
There’s something to be said for a classic. And who does classic better than Hermès? You can practically smell the luxury. Taste it. Shows that, refreshingly, are about nothing other than some...
We’re all figured that 2016 wasn’t the great year on record, for many reasons. We’re not going to mention the politician whose surname is synonymous in Britain with flatulence – and who...
Kris Van Assche is, at heart, a club kid. That’s often the inspiration behind his Dior Homme collections, and it always creates a certain distinct design tension – combining a spirit of...
In a season where hybrid garments – half pac-a-mac, half suit blazer; a cross between a jumper and a coat – are high ion the agenda, Chitose Abe was in her element. Hybrids have extended...
Boys love toys. We know that well. So does Rei Kawakubo, who was in an unusually playful mood for her Winter 2017 Comme des Garçons Homme Plus collection. Her boys didn’t just love their toys,...
America is on everyone’s minds right now – before Riccardo Tisci’s latest Givenchy collection kicked off, journos were passing around images of the Trump inauguration and commiserating with...
Happy birthday Juun.J! That conveniently rhymes, and neatly describes the fact that… well, it’s Juun.J’s birthday. Not the actual birthday of the actual Mr Juun.J, but of his label, which hits...
Dries Van Noten is obsessed with cloth – at least, he was this season. Seems like a daft thing to say, as without cloth we’d all be naked like the fashion show in that dodgy Robert Altman...
There are a multitude of references to Yohji Yamamoto’s eighties heyday abounding on the catwalks of the winter 2017 season – the wide shoulder and fluid, unstructured shapes characteristic...
Collaboration is key at Louis Vuitton – they done it with Takashai Murakami, with Richard Prince, with Stephen Spouse and several times with Jake and Dinos Chapman – their ghoulish...
Is Rick Owens a covert Mariah Carey fan? You may scoff, but backstage at his winter 2017 show the title writ large above the looks was “GLITTER”. Immediately you thought of the ill-fated album,...
Who would have had Virgil Abloh down as a C.S. Lewis aficionado? There was definitely something of the Narnia to his winter 2017 offering, as models trudged through an enchanted wood erected inside...
Yusuke Takahashi, the head honcho at the house of Issey Miyake, is obsessed with surface. Thats’ not a bad thing: after all, the serrated surfaces of Miyake’s pleasing pleats are the houses...
Haider Ackermann is a natty textile technician, and a wicked tailor. Those two aspects of his oeuvre (as they say in French) are what netted him Berluti: his debut happens this Friday, and we’re...
Pierpaolo Piccioli proffered precious punk princes, persuasively… at Valentino. I was trying to aliterate the whole thing, but it’s not humanly possible. But precious punk prince is an apt...
A treatise on ‘Corporate Dressing’ was the notion behind Demna Gvasalia’s second Balenciaga menswear collection, for winter 2017. But don’t think McDonald’s uniforms, rather the uniforms of...
Because who needs all that hassle of going to a fashion show, when you can, instead view an entire collection through image alone? And no, we don’t mean those straight up and down Vogue Runway...
Fendi’s winter 2017 menswear packed a pretty hefty wallop – it always does. It’s something about a man wearing a full-length fur coat, and fur slides, and a fur beanie, as well as a bag...
Alessandro Dell’Acqua’s No 21 menswear is known for taking proposing a delicate variation on masculinity – even a feminine one, you may say. But his winter 2017 show was heartier, meatier,...
The Prada space at Via Fogazzaro always lends clues as to the brand’s collection to be shown there: witness the latest, for winter 2017. A series of wooden dividers chopped up the cavernous space...
Dean and Dan Caten of DSquared2 can inject anything with a dose of high-octane glamour and sex appeal – remember that time a few years back when their models trudged through mud in towering...
The gauchos of South America aren’t an empty reference for Marcelo Burlon – he grew up there, hence his Winter 2017 collection was about delving back into his own culture and history,...
Make love, not war – that could’ve been the message of Jeremy Scott’s latest Moschino collection, although it may have been festooned with military riffing and referencing. After all, most...
Meet Versace’s freedom fighters. Because Donatella said this, her AW17 menswear collection, was about, “a tribe of people, that has different ideas, beliefs and an opinions… but they love...
Neil Barrett has a long memory. After last winter’s collection exploring his seventies childhood, and the next his teen years, Barrett’s winter 2017 offering was full-on eighties, albeit with a...
Francesco Risso is the new man in at Marni – boldly, the brand decided to debut his talents at Milan’s menswear season, rather than storing up until womenswear. Perhaps it shows how important...
In a fairytale castle setting, Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana unveiled a cast of a thousand looks – or, at least, a hundred and something – in a spectacle that rivalled any thirties...
It’s a season that looks ready to be dominated by tailoring – and who tailors more sharply than Giorgio Armani? He’s one of the few designers who can be credited with really transforming...
If Diesel Black Gold creative director Andreas Melbostad is a Netflix binger, it’s not old series of Miranda (unlike us), but rather something that’s going to feed his brain and inspire his...
New season, new start – at least it is for Ermenegildo Zegna Couture, where their new artistic director Alessandro Sartori unveiled his new collection, in a new venue, with a new attitude...
Z Zegna was giving us skiwear. Skiwear circa 1972. Or similar surrounding years. This was not least because the press release told us so, but also because, on entering the Z Zegna space at Pitti Uomo...
Gosha Rubchinskiy has turned the whole world onto Russia; if you’ve seen style-conscious teenage boys (and a few girls) sporting cyrillic sloganeering and clothes that look like the wardrobe to a...
Struggling to remember anything from Mad Max except Tina Turner in a skimpy chainmail get up. But, nonetheless, this was the inspiration behind Tim Coppens AW17 collection. Or, well, the apocalypse...
Korea, land of kimchee, karaoke and now, klothes. But today it was specifically about the latter, because our first show of Pitti Uomo was Concept Korea, the celebration of Korean design talent that...
Not that we can quite capture this one in images. So we will, attempt, to describe it. Let’s start with – he’s clever that Paul Smith. Because what his PS by Paul Smith show tonight...
Let’s be honest, apart from the corsets, Vivienne Westwood has always been above such trivial things as gender stereotypes. Remember SEX? And its era of all inclusive PVC shredding and safety pins...