Givenchy: Ready-to-Wear AW18
A chilling echo of wind, the piercing sound of violins. This was the opening to Clare Waight Keller’s Givenchy Autumn/ Winter 18 Night Noir. The sound of trains passing, and a very Stranger...
A chilling echo of wind, the piercing sound of violins. This was the opening to Clare Waight Keller’s Givenchy Autumn/ Winter 18 Night Noir. The sound of trains passing, and a very Stranger...
“Dream when your day is through. Dream, and they might come true. Things are never as bad as they seem so dream, dream, dream,” read the last lines of ‘Drugs’ by the late greats Cookie...
Collar up, sunglasses on, animal print, Tom Ford has got it going on. So fly he’s making us bust a rhyme. Is this the ultimate glamour va va voom menswear? Yes, New York Fashion Week Autumn/ Winter...
Take a brief glance at Dunhill, is it not Gary Numan personified? Cars? Are your friends electric? Do any of them actually own cars, or can they actually afford an electricity bill? None the less,...
I know, I know, we’ve harped on about rainbow colour palettes one too may times, but can we just say, in the case of a certain Paul Smith rainbow colour palette. On the darker hue scale...
Is there in existence a name more synonymous with luxury than Hermès? Tell me that your knees don’t buckle at the sight of that orange bag with its horse drawn cart emblem and I’ll call you a...
Your immediate thought whenever you see a Berluti collection is always Lucky Bitches. The French and Sauders, Joan and Jackie Collins sketch. Not for the Joan and Jackie look of excess, animal print...
We’re going to call this morning after the night before dressing. Have you ever seen me drag my sorry carcass to a newsagent on a hangover? Coat over pyjamas, jumper with a hole, food stuck in...
There’s something very Gary Numan about the new Alexander McQueen collection. It could be the suiting, tailored to impeccable crispness, or the colour palette of red and black. Are clothes...
The Autumn/ Winter 2018 Comme des Garcons Homme Plus collection has thrown up many, many questions. Questions that I never thought I’d think of in relation to Rei Kawakubo. Questions that I now...
You have to admit, Olivier Rousteing has balls. He had them when he created his own army, which broke the internet more than Kim’s arse ever could- and that was internet breakable arse- and now...
It was Maya Angelou who said, “I love to see a young girl go out and grab the world by the lapels. Life’s a bitch. You’ve got to go out and kick ass”. Now, if the wisdom of Ms...
Mr Kris Van Assche has been with Dior Homme for 10 years. Ten! Which naturally leads to us asking, “ can we thank you for the music?” “the clothes we wore and songs we sang” and dressed our...
Is it only me, or is there always something rather church like about a Thom Browne collection? Papal even? Definitely reverant. Welcome to the church of Thom, now get on your knees and worship at...
According to the press notes the starting point for the new Sacai collection was a New York Times declaration, “truth, it’s more important now than ever”. Which, you have to admit, in a world...
Remember that Diana Ross song, ‘Reach out and Touch’? I like to think it inspired John Galliano’s Autumn/ Winter 2018 collection for Maison Margiela. Probably not, but lets not let...
So, Junya Watanabe. What was the collection like? Allow us to defer once again to resident fashion oracle, Garth Allday Spencer. What he doesn’t know about fashion isn’t worth even writing down,...
There’s always a comforting reassurance to Yohji Yamamoto’s shows, a familiarity that speaks both of the designers clarity of vision and insistence on producing collections year on year...
Apparently, Dries van Noten sent out a press release before his Autumn/Winter 2018 show stating that this season there would be no talking to the press, either before or after the show. Instead, the...
Yes, the rumours, non rumours even, are true. Kim Jones is leaving the house that Louis built. To quote from, and before I do, I must apologise profusely, it’s been a day of Magic FM, Jamie of...
This just in, from the fashion oracle, Garth Allday Spencer of the magazine which you have voluntarily chosen to follow on social media- there was no subliminal messaging involved, scouts honour. So,...
You really have to love Issey Miyake Men. You can’t not. What that man does with a tight, tiny pleat makes everyone go weak at the knees. Literally, fall on the floor, flat on your face weak at the...
Business Casual. That was the name of the Off-White menswear collection for Autumn/Winter 2018. But don’t expect any classic, or for that matter dated, notions of business casual here. There are...
Could you say that Y/Project is ever so slightly reminiscent of the Wu Tang Clan? There’s something about the trousers that says early 90’s, LA street to me. Which seeing as Glenn...
Forgive the tangent that is about to vomit all over you, and not in a sexy way, but look up Valentino, the AW18 men’s collection. Now tell me that Look 1- black from head to toe, front pleated...
There’s always something romantic about a Haider Ackermann collection. A sort of longing for times that came before, travel that permeates every seam. Julie Christie in Dr Zhivago but remade for...
Imagine the year is 1980 something, lets say the first half of the 1980’s, maybe 1984. Why the hell not? You are an internationally renowned villain, living underground in an evil lair. It’s...
The Gosha Rubchinskiy show was held at the Yeltsin Museum, and before you ask if Milan has a Yeltsin Museum, it doesn’t. The show wasn’t in Milan, it was in Yekaterinburg and live streamed. And...
There’s a nice square motif running through the Autumn/ Winter 18 Numero Ventuno collection. Is square the right word for a textile? Or is geometric better? Not that it was necessarily geometric,...
There were umbrella hats at Fendi. And yes, these are an actual thing. Invented by someone called Robert W Patten, according to Wikipedia, “while he was prospecting in Mexico. His original hat...
There’s a sense of nostalgia permeating through the Giorgio Armani collection. Well, there’s definitely one permeating through the press notes, “The idea of a man drawing on memories and...
Manning the DJ booth himself for his AW18 showing, Marcelo Burlon spoke of the devout group of followers who wear his clothes in the show notes, claiming, “the people who wear my clothes want...
The show notes that awaited guests at Marni’s AW18 Menswear show spoke of a kind of global ethnography, a collage of anthropologists’ field notes, albeit written in stanzas, made from,...
Like a rhinestone cowboy, or cow girl, strutting out on the runway in a star spangled rodeo. That was Dsquared2 , well something like that. There were rhinestones, and the models were definitely...
Does Prada wanna be adored? Isn’t Prada already adored? I only ask because there did seem to be the ever so slight underpinning of the Stone Roses to this… Manchester. Not to mention...
I want to say that there’s something rather 80’s, workwear casual about the MSGM collection. It’s in the cut of the trousers. They’re that sort of dad jean shape, wider than what we’re...
Why is it, that whenever I see shiny, yet worn leather, especially if it’s black, or midnight blue in colour, I immediately think of Al Pacino in Cruising? Who hasn’t entertained fantasies of...
Every time I look at an Emporio Armani show, my first thought is always American Gigolo, and Richard Gere. American Gigolo because I now, 10 years into trying to be a gigolo and not being one, am...
There’s always a thread of Sicily running through a Dolce & Gabbana collection. Be it a yearning for simpler times, or an essay in baroque excess, an undercurrent of that small Mediterranean...
If Dolce was Hyacinth Bucket’s wet dream of a three piece suite, then Versace is surely Hugh Hefner’s. You have to give it to Donatella Versace, who else sends out a collection you not only want...
Clothes for boys, clothes for girls, boys clothes for girls and vice versa, with an ever so subtle tinge of fetish wear to them? Yes it’s Moschino. To quote one Jeremy Scott, “For this collection...
There’s something in the top heavy, drop shouldered silhouette at Les Hommes that immediately brings to mind Vizzini, the small evil one who thought he could out smart the masked, imposter Zorro in...
There’s something sexy about tailoring, a man in a well cut suit. It’s something often overlooked in fashion, tailoring, but from a menswear perspective, nothing looks as good. The sharpness of...
For their appearance as Pitti’s guest designers, Undercover and Takahiromiyashita The Soloist delivered a joint spectacle that verged on the symbiotic, and which, despite being conceived in...
Craig Green’s shows are always emotional. It’s partly because we’ve known him since the very beginning, partly because he’s a lovely, lovely man, but mostly because, season on season, he...
Bobby Abley’s boys (and girls) just want to have fun. Because if Looney Tunes, bunny ears, furry dungarees, buck-toothed grills and a large yellow Tweety Pie sweatshirt made entirely from...
Second show of the day is Pronounce, and this one’s styled by the big GS, AKA Garth Spencer. Well done him. Tonnes of great outerwear from Zhou and Li this season – duvet coats in optic...
Astrid Andersen combined two loves of ours, those loves being hunky young men and cowboy hats. She’s always had hunky young men, but she hasn’t always had cowboy hats. So was it a ride on, to put...
Hussein Chalayan shows his menswear in his Mayfair store. Which fits. These are clothes to buy, and clothes to wear. Which is not to say they are “normal” – Hussein is a cerebral designer,...
Mama Lulu’s Class of Spring 2018 take to the catwalk. First – Art School. Business and pleasure. Office trousers fell into explosions of sequins at the ankle, pinstripe suits came up high...