BOSS: Menswear SS18
This collection was called “Summer of Ease.” Prophecy? We hope so. BOSS’s latest offering, shown in New York yesterday, was all about airy sartorialism and luxy workwear – a...
This collection was called “Summer of Ease.” Prophecy? We hope so. BOSS’s latest offering, shown in New York yesterday, was all about airy sartorialism and luxy workwear – a...
In case the following prose doesn’t give us away: we are not in New York, we did not see Raf Simons’ SS18 show last night. We were in bed. And, whilst we enjoy being in bed, we are...
For his Spring 2018 collection, Jean Touitou brought the runway to him – more specifically, his A.P.C. store just off Rue Saint-Honoré in Paris. Smart. And the models? Who needs a casting...
I like to think that RuPaul’s “Supermodel” was playing whilst Demna Gvasalia photographed his latest Vetements collection, those images taking the place of a runway show which the...
We’ve missed Alexander McQueen’s menswear shows. Always good clothes, obviously, but also because a McQueen show, any McQueen show, feels like a bit of a moment. And tonight, more so –...
Second time that Paul Smith’s boys and girls shared the catwalk, this season delivering up what we will call a fishy feast. Perhaps you could even say they were serving fish on the runway (har...
The handsome Mr Browne served up half-man, half-queen realness this evening at his #SS18 menswear show. Referring, ofc, to that final exit, whereby our gentleman model was groom up front, bride down...
You always sort of forget just how good Lucas Ossendrijver’s menswear is until you are reminded twice yearly at the shows. Because it’s really very good. And what’s good about it is this: these...
Our last show of Paris and OMG there’s a bungee situation at Kenzo. Lots of bouncy abseiling boys and girls pon the walls on the Lycée Camille Sée. Properly fab. Collection itself, for both men...
Astro turf flooring. Maybe this isn’t the best way to start a write-up but it was there, and it was green. And felt nice to walk on. Astro turf could, in some cases, be utilised as a poor...
Garth very much enjoyed being a model today at Acne Studios SS18 presentation. Not a real one, but we’re not not telling him that. Instead this was something of a role reversal, a Freaky Friday...
There was a hiker meets wild west moment at Sacai this morning. Sporty quilted outerwear had a suede yoke across the chest, like a cowboy’s shirt, anoraks, in brilliant blue, fell away into...
There’s something on the bed-sheet to this. Which is nice. We like bed. We like being in bed. We’d rather be in bed now – etc. etc. It meant that Juun.J’s collection this afternoon...
I actually really like what Sebastien Meunier is doing at Ann Demeulemeester. He’s found a nice groove at the brand, balancing Ann’s dark, gothy vision with something wholly more romantic –...
Early start for Junya, but it’s always worth it. Can’t help but think of Richard Gray every time I see Junya, mainly because he’s probably wetting his pants right about now thinking about all...
Sophia called this “genius” in that loud voice she uses when she really really likes something. So it must have been good. It WAS good. More than good. It was amazing. Often there’s this...
“Sophisticated letting go,” were the words chosen by Hermès this evening to describe their SS18 menswear outing. Very us. We’ve been sophisticatedly letting go over London, Florence, Milan and...
We love Balmain. J’adore it. It’s always full-on glam-a-rama. Sophia loves Olivier so much that I think she might adopt him. And today, the lovely Mr Rousteing was looking inwards. To himself....
Energy levels flagged this afternoon, and, well, this morning, at lunchtime and now, but mostly this afternoon – up to the point at which Benjamin Huseby and Serhat Isik’s Berlin-based...
Yohji does Yohji. What is it they say about Gods making men in their image? Surely the same must be said of fashion Gods, which Yohji most certainly is, perhaps even the Zeus of fashion Gods –...
I want to call this skimpy. To which I am mainly referring to a single look, a teeny-tiny suede singlet and equally teeny-tiny shorts. It made us feel strange things. Good strange things. Skimpy also...
Exit one and I’m getting a touch of the Garth Spencers. Was our Exec Fashion Director on the moodboard for Kim Jones’ SS18 Louis Vuitton collection this afternoon? In a word: no. He wasn’t....
I’m going to begin by quoting the words of Rick Owens, not through laziness, just because they are very very good. Specifically, his words about the set for today’s SS18 show – an...
This evening’s Dries Van Noten menswear show took place in the former editorial offices of French newspaper, Libération. The newspaper itself was formed in the wake of the protest movements of...
It’s the big one. LV in Paris, baby. A big one you can watch it here, live, in real-time, at 1.30pm GMT. And, as if the occasion wasn’t quite big enough already, Aubrey Drake Graham,...
“Modern luxury” is Garth’s verdict. Which seems about on the money. We’re programmed to expect next level beauty from Haider Ackermann, and this evening he giveth us just that via his...
There’s something about this I can’t quite put my finger on. I want to call it delicate. Not the clothes themselves, per se, but the boys. There was a softness to them. A boyishness. You want to...
For some reason, by which I actually mean one very obvious reason, that being that they both have a Y in them – whenever I read Y/PROJECT, I get Y Control by the Yeah Yeah Yeahs stuck in my...
This was sporty. Not clothes to play sport in, we don’t do that, and PSA: Valentino should not be sullied with either human sweat, errant balls or other people’s hands. Rather, these were...
Something familiar about this – sitting in a park, staring mistily at hot young dads and fantasising about having what we’ll call a Julia Roberts in Stepmom moment, where the children, though...
Could this be that rarest of occasions when the left-behinds of Ten HQ are actually really very happy that we don’t have to go to Paris for shows? It’s 37°C in the French capital...
There’s something of the watersports to this. Wetsuits and the like. Body-clinging scuba tops that zipped all the way down the front, a couple of gold lame bodysuits, foamy velcro sandals. Which,...
This was fresh. Like mint. Or sucking on a lime. It began with a big, optic white shirt and slinky little shorts, also white. Shorts that were short by name, and very short by nature –...
True fact – those pesky powers that be at Ten Towers have recently implemented a “shorts ban”. Our legs must be fully trousered at all times. Entirely sure that this flouts some sort of...
The backdrop to Giorgio Armani’s SS18 show, held this morning in the house’s stadium-style Teatro, was a screen, a screen of three simple words: Made In Armani. A statement that, apart from...
Sometimes, after a long day, you just need a DSquared2 show. I want to say it’s because you know what you are getting, but I don’t quite mean that, because that sounds like I’m trying to say...
Always get the minor sweats about writing about a Prada show. I mean, how can my words sufficiently convey Mama Miuccia’s vision? So let’s start with: it was a really very good show. Which I know...
MSGM. It’s a wake-up call. It always feels very young, clothes for boys that don’t take themselves too seriously. And always on the brighter side of the spectrum. Plenty of prints too. This...
Let’s begin with the press release. We always find that’s a good place to start. “Travellers: explorers of antithetic iconographies, building their own appearance as they collect bits,...
Fashion loves mining the 90s for those grunge-y, Kurt Cobain references, less so for the minimalism that also came up in the era. But it was the latter that Neil Barrett said was behind his SS18...
Always look forward to a Versace show. They are deliciously OTT, of course, but full of clothes for boys to actually wear, which sounds quite obvious but sometimes designers miss that part out....
Nice seats at Marni. Coloured leather, v chic. Nice collection, too. Mr Risso’s pared it back a bit from his debut, which is no bad thing. And that paring back, the not throwing every single idea...
This morning, Diesel Black Gold went co-ed. As in, men’s and women’s on the runway. I once asked Andreas Melbostad, the designer behind both collections, what his boy and girl were to each other....
Even if you don’t know artist Jenny Holzer’s work, you probably do. Remember those brilliant Helmut Lang ads – those I Tease You, I Breathe You, I Smell You On My Skin? Her. And lots of...
It’s not about your feet, it’s a what you wear on them. Or, in the case of Federico Curradi’s SS18 collection shown at Pitti Uomo in Florence this morning, what you don’t. Because the...
There’s something to be said about seeing clothes in a different context. And what better context than a villa on the rolling hills just outside of Florence? That’s where Jonathan Anderson...
Okay, so we’re thinking that he’s the naughty-schoolboy sort. Not in a uniform, mini skirt-and-tie sort of a way, but more that HUGO’s SS18 collection, shown at Pitti this evening, felt a...
Garth found this one a bit difficult, bless. He’s afraid of Teletubbies, “like a pet is afraid of a hoover,” apparently. He thought it was going to bite him. Poor Garthy. Because...
Last show of London Fashion Week Men’s, and, before we get down to the business in hand – we must reiterate the following statement: how effing fab is Vivienne Westwood? Not content with...
There’s always something emotional about a Craig Green show. Much of that is down to Craig himself – you can feel the sheer weight of his vision, his passion for clothing, his quietly...