Jacquemus: Menswear SS20
Forget running through fields of wheat, Jacquemus celebrated his 10th anniversary show in the south of France in a vast blossom of purple lavender. It was the first time the designer showed his...
Forget running through fields of wheat, Jacquemus celebrated his 10th anniversary show in the south of France in a vast blossom of purple lavender. It was the first time the designer showed his...
Sex, sex, sex was the word on everyone’s lips following Ludovic de Saint Sernin’s steamy on-schedule debut yesterday afternoon. Forget getting frisky in your boyfriend’s car, the...
This is the end of an era. To the disappointment of many, Humberto Leon and Carol Lim have departed from the house of Kenzo. Just like Kenzo Takada’s last ever show in 1999, Leon and Lim’s swan...
In an exercise of considered dishevelment the Sacai designer Chitose Abe turned the suit inside and out and layered it at her SS20 show this morning in Paris. The normally unseen was now exposed to...
The Creative Director of Loewe Jonathan Anderson has a fascination with the art world: Loewe and art are interconnected. Indeed, since Anderson’s inception at the house, Loewe has become the...
During the post-war economic boom of Japan in the 1980s, a new musical genre evolved. City Pop was an amalgamation of many western musical styles. With it a dress-style evolved, one which mixed New...
The collegiate worlds of various sports collided with the exquisite world of ballet at the Thom Browne SS20 show. Set in the École nationale supérieure des Beaux-Arts: the home of fine arts...
Pink and camel; mint and mink; light pink and mushroom; light pink and yellow: it take a practised hand to mix colours like this. Hermès creative director for men’s Véronique Nichanian has spent...
The flashy zips, bodycon tees and bulge-featuring trousers in vinyl. If you asked where is the most probable place to encounter GmbH clothes in action, the answer would probably be one of...
Upon walking into the Dior runway venue for designer Kim Jones’ SS20 show, guests were greeted by a reimagining of Christian Dior’s world and personal ephemera including his desk and a...
It’s a joy to shop Junya Watanabe. At the shows – planning looks – and in stores too. And going shopping seemed to be the inspiration behind Watanabe’s latest line-out. Models pulled...
Transformation and liberation through time was the title of the SS20 Comme des Garçons Homme Plus collection. The show, cut into three acts, was inspired by composer Olga Neuwirth’s opera Orlando....
On a huge and elevated stage built especially for the Balmain x (RED) festival and runway show; dozens of models showcased designer Olivier Rousteing’s new spring collection for the house....
The slit-front trouser (from the front-pleat up), a wider “puddle flare” and a leather patchwork jogger with knitted-cuff hem. These new trouser options from Berluti designed by the brand’s...
Place Dauphine, a small stroll from the Louis Vuitton design studios in the centre of Paris, was the destination for the brand’s incredible SS20 runway line-out. It was a clever move by Men’s...
To the Square Louis XIII, Place des Vosges, Paris, this morning, for the Issey Miyake SS20 men’s show; which was dedicated to the hugely successful ISSEY MIYAKE HOMME PLISSÉ SS20 line. The...
Is 1970s glam rock back, once again? Even when we’re ready to sign something off as pastiche, there goes Rick Owens and proves us wrong. With shoulder pads tall and Perspex-heeled platform boots...
You can thank the composer Mica Levi for the haunting soundtrack at last night’s Raf Simons show. The original score for the 2014 horror smash Under the Skin starring Scarlett Johansson: it was the...
Jun Takahashi’s Undercover registers with the fashion elite, and since its inception in 1993, this gothic-flexed and Tokyo-based brand has been permanently making cool. Takahashi’s creative...
Nip, cinch, tuck, slash, twist. In a seemingly random game of fashion mash, Glenn Martens concocted his SS20 collection for Y/ Project. And boy, was it fun. Season after season, the complex ideas of...
JW Anderson has been at the shears cutting up all manner of eveningwear to create some beautiful things. When he wasn’t chopping at the lapels of a dinner jacket, and fashioning them into a scarf,...
The Cottweiler boys ditched the cruising grounds that inspired their AW19 collection for somewhere a little hotter this time around. Though we weren’t whisked off to an unbeknown location...
A series of paths led models through a garden of white carnations. The SS20 Off-White show has started. And on they came: padded jackets and graffiti-strewn white denim; this same graffiti then came...
“The trousers are so fluid they appear to be a size too big,” read the press notes for the Giorgio Armani menswear SS20 show, earlier today. This emphasis on fluidity ran throughout the...
Dissecting hardworking gardening gear and re-purposing the codes to create a contemporary men’s wardrobe was the aim of Fendi’s Creative Director Silvia Venturini Fendi at her standout...
Born in Canada, living in London, made in Italy. It’s the motto of the design talent behind this high-octane and hugely successful luxury brand. The designer twins, Dean and Dan Caton, love the...
The skill and artful craft of Etro is legendary. It’s a patchouli-soaked world of exceptional fabrications and decades of beautiful clothes in the finest luxury fabrics. And travel. Etro has long...
As graduates of the respected Royal Academy of Fine Art in Antwerp, the creative brains behind men’s fashion label Les Hommes Tom Notte and Bart Vandebosch, have developed a strong visual language....
This luxury Italian brand doesn’t do things by half. For their knockout SS20 show on Friday night, the fashion and manufacturing behemoth ferried the global menswear fashion corps to the outskirts...
The California-based contemporary artist Sterling Ruby presented his new fashion label S.R.Studio.LA.CA. in Florence this evening. The clothes, a mix of womenswear and men’s, further explored the...
To a sports stadium outside Florence this morning, for the MSGM show we went. And, on to the floor of which, the brand’s designer Massimo Giorgetti, had projected footage of an inviting azure blue...
The incredible Giardino all’ Italiana on the outskirts of Florence was the setting for the Givenchy SS20 menswear show under the creative direction of Clare Waight Keller the British designer and...
If anybody were any doubt of the rude health of the menswear fashion market right now: a trip to Pitti is in order. The twice-yearly menswear trade show has become a launch pad for both up-and-coming...
There’s no one we’d rather see in the closing spot of London Fashion Week Men’s than Bethany Williams. Representative of positive change and an optimistic outlook on what happens to be a pretty...
And off to Surrey Quays we went. For the last day of this season’s LFWM, designers decided to take us on a tour of South London. After Craig Green’s serenity in colourama, Samuel Ross led the way...
Craig Green’s first exits and new proposal for SS20 spoke to SS19’s commercially successful shadow-print cotton pieces, as the designer laid together, what appeared to be, patches of suede...
Paria Farzaneh’s show started with an olfactory experience, a sweet-smelling musky scent filled the high ceilinged industrial space; a disused power station in Wapping. In the centre of a square...
What is a menswear collection without a single pair of trousers? The elaborate answer to this simple question was on display at today’s Xander Zhou show. Literally. Instead of a traditional catwalk...
It’s a year of big celebrations at Chalayan. For the past 25 years, Hussein Chalayan has been designing clothes that weren’t just part of a bigger conversation but was the catalyst for change. A...
“What we do every season is the alternative creative masculinity and this time the dresses were the first things we started with and built it from there,” said Per Götesson backstage. “This...
Three shows in one: Fashion East is the conveyor belt of young London fashion design talent, and a must-watch in the capital’s frantic LFWM schedule. When models walk at such a pace,...
Swathes of white cotton sheets pegged onto adjoining washing lines filling the centre of the catwalk bellowed gently with the breeze as guests passed by taking their seats. The set design by...
Against the backdrop of the harsh skyline crafting the City of London, Martine Rose came back to LFWM. And when we say back – we mean BACK. After another season out (this is the second time in...
In the case of emerging designers, constant reinvention often becomes a burden disabling their true talent to come through. Hype then turns into the main instrument these designers feed their ideas...
Contemporary British menswear wouldn’t be what it is without Alexander McQueen. The late designer originally started the men’s part of his brand back in the season of SS05, with a...
Serene. A word we wouldn’t usually use to describe the work of everyone’s favourite loverboy Charles Jeffrey. But that’s exactly how we felt after his show last night. It was a...
First look out: a black pair of trousers and a black t-shirt. Was this a new, minimal era of Liam Hodges? Not quite. Primitive futurism mixed with cyberpunk ideologies in a cast of individuals, each...
A spiritual experience at a spiritual place. Instead of just sitting, watching and awkwardly clapping, Nicholas Daley had us smiling, dancing and “wooh”-ing at his SS20 show. From an intimate gig...
When you’ve been at shows since 9am everyone needs a little pick me up. There’s only so much that mini bottles of Evian and copious packets of free lentil chips or a cereal bar can do. Luckily...
Without the help of a weather shaman – as far as we know at least – Edward Crutchley had the sun out for his SS20 show. Held in the courtyard of Haberdashers’ Hall, a procession of...