Ralph Lauren: Ready-To-Wear AW19
Where do you go after celebrating 50 years of success? Well, if you’re Ralph Lauren, the party goes on. For one night only, the world got to experience Ralph’s Club, a decadent backdrop for his...
Where do you go after celebrating 50 years of success? Well, if you’re Ralph Lauren, the party goes on. For one night only, the world got to experience Ralph’s Club, a decadent backdrop for his...
It was a museum, within a museum – and a majestic, meta moment to end Paris fashion week. Nicolas Ghesquiere built a convincing replica of the Pompidou centre in a vast marquee inside a courtyard...
Crowds had gathered outside the Grand Palais to pay their respects to one of the greats of 20th and 21st century fashion. Karl Lagerfeld’s final collection for Chanel was about to be unveiled....
The work of the London-based artist and filmmaker Sharna Osborne filled TV and LED screens dotted around the Miu Miu show space in Paris, yesterday afternoon. Osborne’s work shifts between the...
All roads led north for Sarah Burton who went back to where she came from, the industrial heartlands of northern England, for this stunning Alexander McQueen show. It was a powerful and sensitive...
Incongruous fusion started here: the Japanese brand Sacai is the Tokyo based home of super-cool collaborations and designer Chitose Abe’s clothes fuse Tokyo street with that very special sense of...
Before there was “woke” there was Stella McCartney. She’s always been on the right side of the moral/eco/ethical argument – it’s just taken the rest of the fashion world 20-odd years to...
With bourgeois chic teleported to the centre of the fashion agenda thanks to Celine and Burberry, all eyes are on Hermes. The brand is the most tony of all but rather than take a nostalgic approach...
What does elegance mean in 2019? Clare Waight Keller has an answer at Givenchy, where a sleek, sartorial approach rules. Waight Keller understands the importance of line and works with the...
Sometimes the best things in life are kept simple. Haider Ackermann’s second co-ed collection reimagined simplicity. Cutting out the fuss, it was a understated lesson that less incredibly well cut...
Sometimes you just love a show. That’s how it was for us at Balenciaga. You’ll probably read a lot of moaning (on other channels) about the darkness of the show space and the choking the smell...
Pierpaolo Piccioli is not afraid of big emotion. His Valentino couture shows overwhelm his audience with their beauty and often bring hard-hearted fashion hacks to tears. He’s not about to let up...
What will Thom Browne do next? His shows have become extensions of his thought process and creative brain. We’ve had ‘60s trips to bonkers-land complete with watering-can-touting elves. We’ve...
Kei Ninomiya has cemented his place in the Paris schedule as one of the “golden tickets”. His presentations, always considered and beautiful, have that “something else”; they feed the...
For autumn, nipped and contorted silhouettes and very strange shapes: shall we call it “bodytecture”? It’s what Rei Kawakubo of Comme des Garçons does best – she is the best. The show...
Using a series of elaborate shoulders and impressive techniques to create extraordinary shapes, Vivienne Westwood’s autumn collection reminds us of the fact that, Vivienne is boss. And it’s to...
Cross Kawaii with Guns ‘n’ Roses, meld prairie dresses with Mod parkas. Junya Watanabe took this contrarian cocktail approach for his AW19 show. It was a mash-up collection that brought opposing...
Volte face. Celine impresario, Hedi Slimane has turned from the skinny young rock chicks of his debut collection to a bourgeois woman who is hooked on classics. Hedi wormholed back to a time before...
Don’t let his puppyish energy and babyfaced good looks fool you. Olivier is one of the most seasoned creative directors in fashion. He’s headed Balmain for almost 9 years (which in the time of 3...
Construction and reconstruction successfully run through with the avante-grade. At yesterday’s beautifully colourful Issey Miyake show in the centre of Paris: a riot of brights separates and...
Mr Jonathan Anderson is intent on making Loewe the home of interesting clothes. His collections are deeply thought through, crafted and considered. They speak to a woman who understands...
Do you feel the need for speed? Virgil Abloh does, channeling the petrol head world of speedway into his Off-White show. If you are looking for a barometer of modern taste, this is it. Before the...
It was never going to be a cupcakes and candy kind of show. Rick Owens set out his vision, make-up designed by the cult body modification artist Salvia and inspiration taken from an architect of...
Who’s making the coolest clothes in Paris? Julien Dossena is making a play for that title with his take on Paco Rabanne. His models slinked down the catwalk in Thirties goddess gowns, cut from...
Glenn Martens is riding high. After a stellar outing as part of the last Pitti Uomo fair in Florence, the designer served us a twisted lesson in history at his Y/Project’s women’s show in Paris....
The future is now, and it’s looking quite fabulous. Or at least so it seems at Courrèges, where Yolanda Zobel is paving the way for communal sensuality. In her second collection for the heritage...
Kenzo takes a refreshing approach to its fashion week slot. The house’s designers Humberto Leon and Carol Lim look upon each catwalk show as an opportunity to create a bespoke fashion experience....
After only three on-schedule catwalk shows, Marine Serre’s vision is as clear as today’s sunny day in Paris. Sporty, futuristic, empowering. The place where Serre comes from is the one of...
Stepping into the monumental Saint Laurent mirrored box show space was like stepping into a vast new superclub where all the VIP members are vetted on the fierceness of their “don’t sit with...
In his now customary podcast, broadcast ahead of the Maison Margiela show, John Galliano talked (in fabulously fruity vowels), of how the digital decadence in which we are immersed, was prompting...
The feminist slogan T-shirt returns! For AW19, Maria Grazia Chiuri revived one of the best selling ideas from her debut Dior show (SS17 for those with goldfish memories). Her first look was a...
Hands up if you want to be an M’A girl. Yep don’t we all, now please form an orderly queue. This season Marques’ Almeida’s girl was punky biker chick that you’d definitely think...
The great Italian designer Armani has been in the mood to change things up of late. Last season he held an epic and entertaining Emporio Armani show in the vast “Armani” hangar at Linate airport...
The worldwide phenomenon of escape rooms has officially taken over the world of Marni. But instead of some scenario where the aliens are taking over the world and it’s up to you and your...
The Cavalli woman likes animal print, but how do you give animalia a contemporary spin? Designer, Paul Surridge found the answer. The Brit talked about being inspired by the liberated women of the...
Grunge, glamour supermodels (new and old), bondage, baroque, metal mesh, rock ‘n’ roll, drop dead incredible eveningwear, hip swishing sexiness – this Versace show had it all. The Versace...
Designer Massimo Giorgetti has a special way of thinking about the MSGM girl. He imagines she’s in a film he’s directing and works from there. Here’s the heart print party dress she wore for...
If Max Mara is that effortlessly chic lady looking perfect from top to toe, then Sportmax is her younger sister who prefers Friday nights over Monday mornings. But for AW19, it seems like...
Wham bam! And just like that a new era Bottega Veneta begins. Daniel Lee presented his first co-ed catwalk show for the brand with a rare kind of confidence. It started with a square neck black...
It was a fitting tribute. As the last model, wearing Karl Lagerfeld’s final designs for Fendi, left the catwalk, Silvia Venturini Fendi took a brief, but emotional solo bow. Then a large screen...
Jeremy Scott knows how to play the fashion game. Wit and wow are his key ingredients and his AW19 Moschino show had plenty. The theme was the American gameshows he loved growing up and the idea of...
Monstrously good. That’s the best way to sum up Prada AW19. Anyone sitting too comfortably on the foam benches that lined the catwalk got the jolt of their life with the first look out. A black...
“Glamour is the secret ingredient that puts the power into power dressing.” So says designer Ian Griffiths who delivered a tour-de-fierce in boss lady chic. It started with strong shoulders and...
For a fifth anniversary present, traditionally you’re supposed to give a wooden gift. So it was particularly fitting that Rejina Pyo’s minimal show set was constructed of wood, as she celebrated...
Some people are sun seekers, others are thrill seekers, but the Jil Sander woman is a serenity seeker. She’s happiest in a divinely cut white shirt dress with a pair of swallows etched on the back....
United Colours of Benetton, the sleeping lion of the Italian fashion industry is waking up. In October 2018, Benetton announced that Jean Charles de Castelbajac was joining the house as it’s first...
Forget about those awkwardly-sized mini bottles of Evian water. Guests at the Hanger presentation were greeted with a mock-up cannabis farm. Ganja plants, courtesy of Boiler Room’s video platform...
This season, Bethany Williams worked in collaboration with Adelaide House, a women’s shelter in Liverpool, and alongside the artist Giorgia Chiarion, who created illustrations of the women of...
The cycle of the fashion industry doesn’t stop. Our first show after hearing the devastating news of Karl Lagerfeld’s passing was Richard Quinn’s. And with sorrow in our hearts, the beauty...
After last season’s co-ed airport spectacle starring Robbie Williams, the world of Emporio Armani womenswear went back to it’s solo showing. And it was all about freestyle. The notion of using...