Louis Vuitton: Ready-to-wear AW20
Spectacular! Nicolas Ghesquière orchestrated a major sound and vision experience to close Paris Fashion Week. The backdrop was a moving tableau of 200 choral singers dressed in historical costume...
Spectacular! Nicolas Ghesquière orchestrated a major sound and vision experience to close Paris Fashion Week. The backdrop was a moving tableau of 200 choral singers dressed in historical costume...
You can’t really spell Lacoste without tennis. The “sport of kings” is at the root of the brand, having been founded by a 1920s Grand Slam superstar René Lacoste back in 1933. Almost nine...
Ingenue chic is the default dress code at Miu Miu with an added layer of Gen-Z attitude on top. Storm Reid, the 16-year-old Euphoria actress opened the show in a crumpled silk gown and heavy wool...
Virginie Viard’s Chanel is taking shape. It is breezy, pragmatic, nonchalant, jeunesse and very Parisienne. Viard sent her models out in friendship groups onto a mirrored catwalk banked with...
Who has a show outside, at night, in February, during the wettest Paris Fashion Week on record? Kanye, that’s who. Whispers of a Yeezy happening began circulating only a few days before, and it...
As welcoming committees go, this was a fashion first. An army of people dressed in fluffy animal suits – dogs, a crocodile, horses, cows – greeted show goers. They posed for pictures and...
Real clothes and fantasy – Clare Waight Keller walks a fine line between both. She knows how to bring cathedral-level grandeur to her Givenchy shows, but also how to cut a suit that works in...
While it might not be apparent to a Y/ Project first-timer, any Glenn Martens superfan will be able to tell you the Belgian designer toned things down significantly this season. With the title...
Both within and outside the industry, Chitose Abe is known as the fashion alchemyst. Long before hybrids became the ultimate tool in merging luxury brands with streetwear sensibilities, Abe came up...
Pierpaolo Piccioli is one of fashion’s great colourists so when he goes goth, you sit up and take notice. The designer embraced black – the uniform of the front row, the colour of minimalism and...
Titled Party Girl: a proposal for brutal elegance conceived in Berlin, Germany, the 032c AW20 collection got the lyrics of Eddie Murphy’s 1985 single Party All the Time firmly stuck in our heads....
Thom Browne shows are feasts of the imagination. The designer is a great and witty storyteller. His winter wonderland set looked like a fashion Narnia, guarded by male models in kilts and...
With so many designers dedicated to warning us of the coming doomsday, it’s more than refreshing to see someone embracing the spirit that made us fall in love with fashion in the first place. The...
Two seasons in and Issey Miyake designer, Satoshi Kondo, is already gaining a reputation as a showman. His debut for the label last season, with skateboarding models and clothes falling onto models...
The level of detail that goes into a Balenciaga show is astonishing. You don’t just see it with your eyes but experience it with your whole body. You are immersed. You feel it – the pounding...
Wow! We all know Haider’s good but he reached for new heights with this show. Haider Ackermann’s signature is out-of-this-world elegance. His models always have an alien-like, replicant beauty as...
Everyone loves a Westwood corset. Vintage ones change hands for small fortunes on Pechuga Vintage but there’s not enough supply to satisfy the demand. So it was good to see Andreas Kronthaler load...
Was it a greatest hits collection? Surely not. Rei Kawakubo characterises herself as a “perpetual futurist”, not a designer who indulges in nostalgia. Yet the references to past Comme des...
A Noir a show is pure theatre. It transports you from a rainy Paris morning to a place of wild imaginings. Kei Ninomiya’s starting point is always the colour black (hence the brand’s name). This...
A red light. Silence. Then the show started. We knew what the theme was – an image of Debbie Harry on the invite had given it away. Junya Watanabe paid tribute to this punk, new wave icon with an...
Loewe is at home in the art gallery. The chic international art crowd wear Loewe clothes inspired by the artists and their subjects hanging on their walls. Not that it looks historical. Jonathan...
From the very first look – an asymmetric fishtail knit dress that exposed one whole leg from hip to heel, paired with glam rock platforms, it was clear that this Rick Owens womenswear show would...
Julien Dossena took Paco Rabanne’s signature chainmail right back to source. Not the hedonistic 1960s but to the medieval crusaders who wore it in battle. Showing in the vaulted crypt of the...
The Off-White brand is about more than just clothes, said Virgil Abloh. Not only has he brought a much needed diversity to fashion and made streetwear the most marketable commodity in the industry...
Horsey references are never far away at Hermès. In the show space, a figure-of-eight dressage configuration catwalk was marked by a forest of brightly coloured upended showjumping poles (which...
There’s nothing quite like a Balmain mass model moment, when 20 fierce women storm the runway in matching navy overcoats and huge rectangular shades. It’s the fiercest flash mob you will...
Creative, inventive, unfettered: Isn’t this what a fashion show is supposed or be? John Galliano employs a trickle down creative method. He experiments wildly with new ideas in his artisanal...
In the post #MeToo era, sex has been largely absent from the catwalks. Conventional sexy codes no longer reflect the lives we live or the values we hold. Rather than grapple with the question of...
Felipe Oliveira Baptista ushered in a new era at Kenzo. The brightly coloured insta-dressing, with which his Kenzo predecessors defined the last decade, has gone. The designer replaced it with his...
It’s always an inspiration to see a new name break into the saturated Paris Fashion Week scene with a lot to say. When he won last year’s LVMH Prize, Johannesburg-based Thebe Magugu made history...
Maria Grazia Chiuri is becoming as well-known for her curation of female artists as she is for her feminist take on Dior’s heritage. After a couture show set against a backdrop of banners created...
Saint Laurent is a house that does everything at scale. The vast show space, which looked like a mirrored Borg cube, reflected the twinkling Eiffel Tower back at it. Inside the superstructure, a...
“Everything we do is a sequel,” Marine Serre told us when explaining her SS20 campaign film. The final scene of the CGI-developed video sees one of Serre’s muses walking through deserted sandy...
It was an emergency response to a serious global situation, but could the Giorgio Armani show be a glimpse of fashion’s future? As Coronavirus fear swept Italy, Giorgio Armani cancelled his fashion...
In a vast disused tram shed, Fila created an immersive fashion experience. We left the warmth of the early spring sunshine outside and entered a specially constructed Fila-verse. Models posed in...
The Boss show was a big event in a Milan. Taking place in an industrial hangar on the outskirts of the city, guests passed by a specially constructed mirrored selfie room into a huge oval...
Our driver nearly lost his license getting us to the Bottega Veneta show – such is the not-to-be-missed urgency of fashion’s hottest ticket. Blink and the season’s most crucial silhouette could...
The mirrored invite was a clue to the theme of the show: “You are the star!” Versace AW20 was a brilliant tribute to selfie love. Showgoers even had to pass through an “influencer tunnel” to...
The nomadic nature of this house is what defines it. Since its inception Etro has taken well travelled inspirations and put them through a luxurious Italian prism. The result is a seductive...
Fashion and real life sometimes collide and in this stylish sweet-spot you’ll find the things that make getting dressed each morning something to savour. Call it an elevated version of everyday...
It was hard and soft, feminine but powerful. The Fendi show, now designed by Silvia Venturini (after Karl Lagerfeld’s 54 year tenure) played with dualities at every level, from materials (mohair...
All the Milanese cool girls love Brognano. They’re so cool in fact, you won’t find them frowing at fashion week – you’ll be lucky if they even turn up to the after-party. Instead,...
“It’s Marie Anime-toinette” said Jeremy Scott of his Moschino show. What a historical romp! “I was playing with this whole idea of a time machine,” he explained. Scott took the...
We were ringside at the gallery, peering down on something intriguing. The Prada show happened in a submerged, cloistered pit designed by AMO, part of Rem Koolhaas’ architecture firm, on a set that...
Mister Armani did not become the most successful fashion designer on the planet and a cultural colossus by sticking to convention. His sporty elegance rewrote the rules of modern dressing so it’s...
Winter means coats and coats mean Max Mara. The Italian house has such a mastery of outerwear that it’s hard to imagine a cold day without it. This season designer Ian Griffiths took...
Alessandro Dell’acqua delivered a masterclass in Milanese dressing at his Numero Ventuno label. Take a shirt, but make it seductive. Not slutty, but hot, in a way that’s so sure of...
When Alessandro Michele himself sends you a voice note inviting you to the Gucci Hub, you get moving. And so, we arrived to the Hub, ushered backstage, where a brilliant sterile turquoise carpet lay,...
Minions. They’re like Marmite; you either love ’em or you hate ’em. Whatever your opinion is on the little yellow creatures, you’re about to see them a whole lot more. As part...
The thing about JW Anderson that makes everyone sit up and take notice is his determination to revel in statement-making design. He works at the parameters of taste. What’s the point of designing a...