Mugler: Ready-to-Wear AW21
The confidence imbued in Casey Cadwallader’s vision for Mugler revibrates from the designer himself. “We’re selling a lot more clothes than we did when I first started,” he...
The confidence imbued in Casey Cadwallader’s vision for Mugler revibrates from the designer himself. “We’re selling a lot more clothes than we did when I first started,” he...
Off-White is firmly back in session. After 16 months of no physical shows, Virgil Abloh’s hunger to elevate the brand that put his name on the map in the first place felt palpable. Speaking to...
From ravishing lavender fields to an “Abstract, artistic mountain”: Simon Porte Jacquemus is winning when it comes to photogenic settings for his fashion shows. He’s also cornered the market in...
Richard Quinn is a marvel. There are no limits to his imagination or his ambition. His brand is tiny, but he always thinks big – even in the face of a pandemic. After taking last season out, Quinn...
“It’s the idea of a girl in a landscape where she doesn’t belong,” said Anthony Vaccarello of his epic, catwalk movie that saw his opulently clad models stride through a strange, icy tundra....
Riccardo Tisci, built up to the big reveal of his Burberry AW21 film with a post on his personal Instagram account, dedicated to his 90-year-old mother, Elmerinda. Her strength, bringing up Tisci and...
Change is good, but evolution is better. AW21 marks a new era for Charlotte Knowles and Alexandre Arsenault. The co-designers are changing the name of their Charlotte Knowles label to KNWLS. The...
It was intense. Perhaps because we’ve been locked down for over a year, Alessandro Michele’s Gucci resort 2022 collection, throbbed with a special kind of ‘out–out’ energy. You know the...
This one’s for all the pretty girls with an edge. You know, the ones that pair a graceful flowing dress with steel-toed leather biker boots? This season, Shanghai-based brand Shushu/Tong looked to...
For Richard Malone, the starting point to a collection always feeds off the wants and desires of his trusted clientele. He describes his signature sculptural pieces as the “bread and...
Ralph Lauren in the John Huston of fashion. His work has always had a sweeping, seductive cinematic quality, so much so, that his version of the American dream is entwined with the national...
The Central Saint Martins fashion MA course is a crucible of creativity. Its alumni shape the industry and if you want to divine what the kids of 2021 care about, then this creative cohort is the...
If Charles Jeffrey’s last collection was about optimism and trying to be positive, his AW21 offering is about the pandemic hitting home. “I wanted to communicate the darkness we are all...
During the pandemic, many of Ashish’s loyal clientele would’ve turned to their beloved sequinned frocks by the designer to seek comfort in the idea of – one day – being able to dress...
Stella McCartney is a leader and an innovator. Every season she not only invents new looks and proportions, but pioneers new ethical, and eco-manufacturing methods. And now that her company’s...
The sheer epic-ness of a Noir Kei Ninomiya show could make any fashion naysayer crave an IRL catwalk experience. Like his mentor, Rei Kawakubo, Kei Ninomiya will be showing strictly in Tokyo till the...
She called it, Landscape of Shadows and presented it as an ode to “monochrome serenity’. Rei Kawakubo’s AW21 Comme des Garçons collection was a black and white palette cleanser. It served as...
Supriya Lele has spent the past five years making women feel at ease in their clothing. Taking elements of traditional Indian dress as seen through a distinct nineties, lo-fi lens, the Fashion...
Soo Catwoman is in the air. Iris Law is playing her in Danny Boyle’s upcoming Sex Pistols movie and her iconic swooping eyeliner and cat-eared buzz cut haunted the Junya Watanabe AW21 catwalk....
We’ve all had to adapt to survive the pandemic. From business meetings to travel to downtime, nobody is doing things exactly the same way we were a year ago. For Boss, a historic brand built on...
Pierpaolo Piccioli has his eyes firmly set on a young, contemporary cohort with his Red Valentino line. His AW21 collection, previewed with a video on the brand’s website, is grounded in “a new...
It’s been a big week for Christian Louboutin. Not only did the French king of red-soled glamour unveil his new AW21 collection, but he also welcomed a major new business partner. Exor, the...
The vivid hues that have come to define Kenneth Ize’s brand were largely absent this season. His traditional Nigerian aso oke-stripes now came in brown as opposed to red, black instead of...
If there’s one theme that’s shot through digital fashion week, it has been a collective longing for the things we’ve missed during Covid. Travel, dressing up and going out with friends, live...
For trends to flourish, humans need to interact. It’s difficult for designers to predict what the world will be wearing next season when the world has spent the last year or so trapped indoors....
It’s often the most beautiful clothes in life are never all that practical. For this season’s Miu Miu show, Mrs Prada aimed to find a happy medium. “Practicality means strength, but...
Who isn’t dreaming of dressing up, going out, dancing and having fun with friends? Virginie Viard tapped into this collective spirit of longing for her AW21 Chanel show. Filmed by Inez and Vinoodh,...
Olivier Rousteing has navigated these turbulent pandemic times with all the certainly of a seasoned pilot, combining digital savvy with innovative thinking and fashion hyperbole. This year he...
On the back of a buzz-worthy haute couture collection, Schiaparelli’s Daniel Roseberry continues his twisted take on modern luxury. He says when designing, he’s taking “iconic...
Maria Grazia Chiuri has put female creativity and empowerment at the heart of her Dior, and thanks to the flexibility of the digital show calendar, changed the date of her show to unveil it on...
Matthew Williams’ vision for Givenchy is defined by spectacle. His bold vision, grounded in clothes that scream to be seen, deserves to be unveiled in front of a live audience. While the...
When we say jump, Thom Browne says how high. With the world seemingly now in joggers, the American designer’s devotion to sheer fashion fantasy is applaudable. Any brand of Browne’s...
Kiko Kostadinov is a brand that’s triumphed through the pandemic. As fashion went digital, the London-based label has turned to intelligent fashion films and iPhone-friendly, interactive...
You could call it a fashion show, but it was more than that. Hermès’ Nadège Vanhée-Cybulski created a tri-continental, live, digital cultural experience. Her triptych concept saw the AW21...
The bijou store in Mayfair, where Westwood’s private clients come to buy gowns, provided the inspiration for Andreas Kronthaler. He spruced-up the elegant little space during lockdown and whilst...
Forget a trip to the drive-in cinema, what about a fashion show that you can enjoy from the comfort of your own car? Coperni, the tech-savvy label helmed by Sébastien Meyer and Arnaud Vaillant –...
From original supers in gold mesh, to JLo’s tropical print runway recreation and Precious Lee’s curve-tastic, 2020 catwalk debut; Donatella Versace has been responsible for some of the most...
A circular défilé served as Nina Ricci’s AW21 set. Finished with a double ring of vacant Klein blue folding chairs, this season the watched became the watchers. The audience-less catwalk film...
This morning’s Issey Miyake film was of a more sombre mood than we’ve come to expect from the brand. There were no elaborate dance routines like January’s men’s show, or...
Jonathan Anderson has risen to the challenges of the pandemic by reinventing the show concept. With fashion shows cancelled, he’s excelled at getting his message across in alternative ways. “This...
A concrete pier jutting into the Venice Lido served as Rick Owens’ AW21 catwalk. To match his men’s show, also unveiled on the Lido, he called the collection Gethsemane after the garden where...
Central Saint Martins alum Dimitra Petsa wants women to love themselves wholeheartedly. By channelling self-love and self-mothering into the sultry designs of her namesake brand, Di Petsa, there is...
Gabriela Hearst’s first collection for Chloé wasn’t the only big debut during yesterday’s digital Paris shows. Maison Courrèges has a fresh-faced Nicolas Di Felice now at the...
These hellish twelve months have completely shattered the traditional fashion calendar. Take New York for example, where once seasonal shows are now simply dubbed the ‘American Collections’. But...
A new era for Chloé began, on what would have been its founder, Gaby Aghion’s, 100th birthday. Gabriela Hearst has breezed into the historic house and brought a game-changing, sustainable approach...
Thebe Magugu is one of fashion’s great storytellers. The LVMH Prize-winning talent uses fashion as a vehicle to communicate his life in South Africa, uplift the people he grew up around and...
This season, Cecilie Bahnsen took a new look at layering. Where separates were once draped over each other – creating a classic stratified silhouette – they’ve now been meticulously merged into...
Cosima Gradient and Christa Bösch, the brains behind Berlin label Ottolinger, are fed up with reality. Like the UK, the German capital is currently stuck in lockdown, and the creative duo has been...
Marine Serre unveiled the latest chapter in her extraordinary career. She used her slot at Paris Fashion Week to launch Core, her new direct-to-consumer band website and storytelling hub. It’s...
As the one-year anniversary of the pandemic rolls round, Pierpaolo Piccioli used his Valentino AW21 co-ed show to support the Italian theatre – which has been dark for nearly a year. The designer...