Cecilie Bahnsen: Ready-to-wear AW21
This season, Cecilie Bahnsen took a new look at layering. Where separates were once draped over each other – creating a classic stratified silhouette – they’ve now been meticulously merged into...
This season, Cecilie Bahnsen took a new look at layering. Where separates were once draped over each other – creating a classic stratified silhouette – they’ve now been meticulously merged into...
Cosima Gradient and Christa Bösch, the brains behind Berlin label Ottolinger, are fed up with reality. Like the UK, the German capital is currently stuck in lockdown, and the creative duo has been...
Marine Serre unveiled the latest chapter in her extraordinary career. She used her slot at Paris Fashion Week to launch Core, her new direct-to-consumer band website and storytelling hub. It’s...
As the one-year anniversary of the pandemic rolls round, Pierpaolo Piccioli used his Valentino AW21 co-ed show to support the Italian theatre – which has been dark for nearly a year. The designer...
“This collection was a homage to the city of Milano,” Massimo Giorgetti proudly stated after his latest MSGM collection was unveiled during Milan Fashion Week. Since the pandemic began,...
As a perturbing reaction to a socially distant world, the AW21 MM6 Maison Margiela collection was turned inside out, upside down and back-to-front. Reimagined staple garments revealed new design...
Tom Ford has come up with a post-pandemic dressing-up formula that we can all get behind: a party top and jeans. His AW21 collection blended casual pieces with couture-level glamour. On the bottom, a...
How does a brand like Fila – which has shaped, defined and re-defined again our perception of streetwear – celebrate its 110th anniversary in the middle of a global pandemic? Paying homage to the...
Do you remember what being carefree felt like? DSquared2 do. Some brands are made for life’s celebratory moments and DSquared2 has the feel-good factor stitched into its DNA. These clothes...
The Giorgio Armani co-ed show started with a close-up of a statue of a gorilla. Was the great designer drawing a parallel between his way of working and evolution in the animal kingdom, where species...
This season, Sportmax took a twisted turn. Kicking off proceedings with a shattered chandelier and an eerie soundtrack, this morning’s show at Milan Fashion Week was an ode to “empowered,...
Jonathan Anderson approaches his collections like a curator would an exhibition. His bulbous, obscure takes on everyday dress are informed by ceramics, paintings and sculptures, often created by...
AGR is the brand rebelling against traditional knitwear tropes, one technicolour-dream-knit at a time. For its first full collection, the London-based design studio moved away from statement,...
Gimmo Etro, who founded Etro in 1968, has collected many special things over the years, including the costumes of Rudolph Nureyev. Veronica Etro dipped into her father’s private archive for...
You’d think Mr Armani – a man who’s spent the last four decades at the top of the fashion food chain – would find swapping his much-adored physical shows for a purely online...
For some designers, switching to digital presentations has felt like a compromise, but Moschino’s Jeremy Scott – a master of live, fashion theatre – is also acing the art of movie-making. His...
One of the most interesting things about the new Raf x Mrs Prada partnership is how easily ideas slide between the men’s and women’s collections. The pair introduced their second women’s show...
It seems Blumarine’s Nicola Brognano has dug out his Motorola Razr and dialled up the 2000s. Marking his second ready-to-wear collection for the house, the handsome designer looked to the...
2021 is a big year for Max Mara. The Italian brand celebrates its 70th anniversary. A big party and a catwalk extravaganza would have been on the cards, but for Covid. Instead, designer Ian Griffiths...
Kim Jones’ new era at Fendi unfolded with a sleek parade of caramel queens, slinking through a maze of glass vitrines. The designer has immersed himself in the house’s remarkable archives and...
Italian superpower Brunello Cucinelli, despite these hellish twelve months, remains a key player in the Milanese fashion world. Informal and relaxed looks were unveiled this afternoon at the leading...
Despite the hardships of the pandemic, Lulu Kennedy’s talent incubator, Fashion East, remains a pillar of London’s creative scene. Closing out digital London Fashion Week, the non-profit...
Drab, dancer’s practice uniforms contrasted with dressed-up finery for Erdem’s AW21 show. He has designed for the ballet before the experience showed in his collection film. Erdem enlisted Edward...
Timing is everything in fashion. So the day after the government anointed June 21 as the date we can finally party again, it’s fitting that Michael Halpern should unveil an AW21 collection best...
You’d think Daniel w. Fletcher, one of London’s brightest independent designers, was a mad man to think of expanding his brand in the middle of a pandemic. Until now, his eponymous label...
Thoughts of fragility and strength are constant themes for Simone Rocha, but as we emerge from a pandemic, they seem especially poignant. “I wanted to explore new ideas,” said Rocha. That came in...
“The heritage of the past and a vision of the future,” is how Roland Mouret described his approach to AW21. He’s a designer who listens to the needs of his customers and even with the shops...
“I think we’ve never done a collection that’s so selfish before,” says a confident Luca Marchetto over Zoom. He’s set next to his creative partner – and the other half...
When it comes to showcasing a collection during lockdown, you do the best you can with what you have. But for Roksanda Ilincic, her best, is pretty damn good. She called upon her friends, Vanessa...
“The pandemic has given me space to pause, take stock and rebuild. Not in a capitalist, ‘I win, you lose,’ way. More with partnerships and collaborations,” says Osman Yousefzada. He has used...
In a year of total fashion flux, where the pressure on young designers to conform in order to survive is more intense than ever, Miles George Daniel is a beacon of hope. The Middlesex University grad...
Yuhan Wang is rerooting nature with feminine ease, one intricate lace gown at a time. “I wanted to explore how time, space and spirit connect women together, and how nature is an ever-present...
The couple behind Preen have an idyllic, pink cottage in the Suffolk countryside. Justin Thornton and Thea Bregazzi have spent most of the last year there with their kids – everyone working or...
Over the course of the past twelve months, Eden Loweth’s Art School has undergone a second coming. With Loweth’s ex-partner and Art School’s co-founder, Tom Barratt, exiting the...
Molly Goddard is redefining comfort dressing, one hot pink flounce at a time. Her idea of it is, “something that is very special but you feel you can go and do anything in it.” For Goddard,...
Some ideas are just too good to leave in the archive. Vivienne Westwood dug deep for AW21. She reached into her brilliant back catalogue, pulling out some of her best ideas and reinterpreting them...
Gorging on texture, fabric and fantastical shapes, Matty Bovan has crafted his way out of the pandemic. The designer’s resilience and resourcefulness came to the fore, over the past 12 months. He...
It’s grim up’t North, well not according to Edward Crutchley. The London-based designer, who grew up in the Yorkshire Dales, hasn’t been home for a year and countryside life has...
As we approach twelve months since the pandemic began, our relationship with fashion couldn’t be more different than it was a year ago. We now seek comfort, familiarity. The boys at Proenza...
Category is: ribbit couture. For autumn/winter 2021, green-minded Hillary Taymour – founder of New York label Collina Strada – transformed her creative community into a series of lovable...
Like most of us currently living on planet Doom’s Day, Anna Sui has her thoughts cast on the new world that will emerge post-pandemic. She’s always been a designer who works with escapism...
Strength and sensuality are the two opposing forces at the heart of the Alaïa brand. The designer brought them together to create a powerful aesthetic that endures. Each season, the studio team he...