Ryan Lo: Ready-to-wear SS20
Ryan Lo is having a red carpet moment. More and more, it’s celebrities who turn to the Hong Kong-born, London-based fashion designers for sartorial options in their public appearances....
Ryan Lo is having a red carpet moment. More and more, it’s celebrities who turn to the Hong Kong-born, London-based fashion designers for sartorial options in their public appearances....
The setting couldn’t have been more spectacular. Mary Katrantzou showed her SS20 collection at The Temple of Poseidon, high on cliffs of Cape Sounion, just outside Athens. Today it’s one of the...
While some designers poetically laud about “their woman” being aspirational with her incredibly aloof character and semi-mystical aura, Max Pearmain and Anthony Symonds focus on the...
With an eerie music video of the British artist Sophie, her cheekbones artificially enhanced to alien-like proportions, the show began. The film formed a vast moving backdrop to the bare...
There’s always a naughty schoolgirl at the heart of Miu Miu – the kind that plays truant but never gets caught. This season the label focused on that core girl playing with school uniform...
It would be a shame if the only conversation about the Chanel show was of the rogue YouTube comedienne who invaded the catwalk as a prank – and was firmly escorted of the stage by supermodel turned...
Sarah Burton talked of stripping things back to the toile, and of clarity and paring things down. So her show started with a model striding the bare boards of her set wearing the most divine white...
From Extinction Rebellion picketing shows in London to Gucci going carbon neutral, this fashion season has been marked by a big conversation around sustainability. What is best fashion practice in an...
Why find inspiration in one specific place when you can take the whole world as your main point of reference? Battling chaos of our society with beauty, Chitose Abe of Sacai decided to take a worldly...
It wasn’t a fashion show, it was a total sensory experience. In a vast film studio on then outskirts of Paris Demna Gvasalia staged an immersive happening. We passed from the grey Paris morning...
Billy Porter might have won the London Fashion Week street style game, but Marie Antoinette seems to be the accidental icon of the SS20 season. At Westwood and Bovan, bustles and panniers have part...
The clue to the big story for Givenchy’s Clare Waight Kellerwas on the invitation: a swatch of frayed denim. The designer’s SS20 collection featured several pieces in upcycled denim. Denim...
If Valentino’s Pierpaolo Piccioli has a signature it is for making divine clothes with the power to transport the wearer (and the watcher). He makes women look breathtakingly beautiful. Adut...
Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski’s show notes talked about replacing a quest for perfection with a quest for movement and her collection was full of supple pieces crafted for an active life. Utility and...
Cloud forms and fifties pin-ups, mixed with Rococo temptresses their swagged and bustled gowns bringing a sense of drama to the occasion. Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood presented a sensual...
The picture expands. This SS20 women’s collection was part two of a three-part creative trilogy culminating in December with Rei Kawakubo’s costume designs for Olga Neuwirth’s production of...
South – West. North – East. Whichever way you look, you will find elements of Haider Ackermann’s inspirations. Yet, when his clothes come down the catwalk, you can’t describe them any...
Down under the gilded glory of the Ponte Alexandre 3rd we went, and into another world. This was a Noir Kei Ninomiya show to remember. The stark white catwalk cut through a dark vaulted tunnel as one...
Junya Watanabe explored the art of the trench. This perfect modern classic got the full Junya treatment. The designer took the coat as his starting point. The show opened with his ideal contemporary...
Hedi‘s Celine is taking shape. His first collection for the house channelled his skinny rock chick obsessions, his second collection was a volte-face embrace of Celine’s bourgeois chic...
Olivier Rousteing knows his woman. She loves glamour and believes in making an effort. She’s not the sort to leave the house without make-up Kylie Jenner is her pin-up and created the makeup look...
Jonathan Anderson transformed the UNESCO foyer with swivelling tubs of pampas grass towering crystal sculptures and mechanised net curtains. It was a gentle kind of surrealism that set the stage for...
The collection was called ‘A sense of Joy’ and that’s what new designer Satoshi Kondo, making his debut for Issey Miyake brought. We say new, but he’s worked for the house for over a decade...
The delightful oddities found in Glenn Marten’s collections for Y/Project are much loved by the fashion crowds, but have always been garnering a different kind of attention from the mass media....
Paco Rabanne designer Julien Dossena knows all about nightlife. His father owned a nightclub in Brittany and when he couldn’t get a babysitter, would put a mattress in the coat check for Julien...
Virgil Abloh might have been absent, but his irreverent spirit was in the air at last night’s Off-White SS20 show. Held at the Centre Pompidou museum of contemporary art, it was another chapter in...
A Rick Owens show always sends a powerful message into the world. Sometimes they’re a commentary on society like in the case of human rucksacks for SS16, and others – like last season – pay...
Nostalgia and strangeness: John Galliano continues to reflect on digital culture with a show that harked back and forward at the same time – often within the same look. He took vintage, archetypal...
Yesterday’s Mugler show was an all-star affair. Karen Elson, Kembra Pfahler, Anna Cleveland, Bella Hadid and Debra f***** Shaw all walked the walk at Casey Cadwallader’s third catwalk...
Mugler, Rabanne, Lanvin, Patou… With heritage houses steadily taking over the Paris Fashion Week schedule, there are clear differences in ways these new(ish) creative directors are steering...
Maria Grazia Chiuri is a champion of strong and courageous women. Her SS20 Dior show shines a light upon Catherine Dior, the designer’s sister, and a horticulturist who joined the French resistance...
After Milan wrapped up, and just before Paris Fashion Week kicked off, the world echoed the emotional voice of activist Greta Thunberg sharing her concerns with the state of the world at the United...
Christelle Kocher was feeling a little fancy-schmancy this season. She opened her SS20 collection with a beige trench cropped just above the knee, with crystal-embellished flowers swimming in a sea...
The rain cascaded through beams of swiveling lights arranged in military formation. It made for a moody and atmospheric Saint Laurent show, held outside in the shadow of the Eiffel Tower. Anthony...
When he decided to use his slot on the NYFW schedule as a screening event for a 6-minute preview of his upcoming collection, Telfar Clemens definitely raised an eyebrow or two. But his brand –...
This was to be a different kind of Gucci show. After four super successful years of establishing an enviably consistent code for Gucci (bonkers individualism meets maximalist styling) Alessandro...
Sportswear has infiltrated every part of our wardrobes. It has staged a stealthy fashion coup and we’ve allowed it to happen. Why? Because we all prize comfort, can’t resist branding and...
There’s a utility vibe coursing through Milan and it’s swept as far as Boss. The tailoring giant, which has decamped from New York to MFW, opened its co-ed show with cropped military jackets and...
Via Borgonuovo 11, is the centre of the Armani universe. Mr Armani lives on this street, has offices here and for years it was his show venue, before he built his vast theatre complex further out of...
The runway was painted a punchy shade of highlighter green and the MSGM clothes shared the same impossible-to-ignore sentiment. The SS20 collection was bright, photogenic and upbeat, with plenty of...
We’re in Milano and the designers still seem fresh from their Ferragosto beach getaway. It’s no surprise – Italians tend to take all of August off, spending multiple weeks in a state of...
Plain fabrications don’t exist in the Etro world. Texture, colour print, decoration, shot through with a worldly, well-travelled, bohemian sensibility are the order of play. It’s not about trends...
This girl loves wearing Iceberg every day. But y’know what she loves more? Wearing it deep into the night. Whilst most scamper to the nearest dimly lit cubbyhole and stay-put there all night to...
Sails wafting gently above the runway accompanied by the sounds of the sea: The Sportmax catwalk was inspired by kinetic installation artist Daniel Wurtzel and the touch point was sailing with...
JLo, in full strut mode, at close quarters, a wake of jungle print chiffon trailing behind her. That body. That face. That attitude. This is what peak fabulosity looks like. Peak fashion too. As pop...
As talk of a female replacement for James Bond builds and Harriet Walter’s new female novel about to drop, Ian Griffiths had a special agent’s wardrobe in mind. Imagining what she might wear...
“I want to be bold, otherwise what’s the point. I’m quite black or white. I want to make a statement. I don’t see the point in making fashion that’s not saying something.” So said...
Peter Pilotto’s move from London to Milan Fashion Week wasn’t just a business decision. The migration was also reflected on the catwalk, their rigorously exuberant silhouettes seemed...
This was the first Fendi women’s show for fifty years that would not have the hand of Karl Lagerfeld on it. The legendary designer died whilst working on the AW19 collection and this new SS20 dawn,...
With London and New York wrapped up and Milan Fashion Week in full swing, it’s safe to say tonal dressing is having a moment. But Mister Armani is ahead of the game. He’s been styling full looks...