Tuesday 23rd February

| BY Claudia Croft

Simone Rocha: Ready-to-wear AW21

Thoughts of fragility and strength are constant themes for Simone Rocha, but as we emerge from a pandemic, they seem especially poignant. “I wanted to explore new ideas,” said Rocha. That came in the shape of a series of tough leathers – all versions of the classic biker jacket. They were heavy with zips and a sturdy sense of protection, “but still my world and my identity,” said Rocha.

She adorned them with 3D leather roses, and created swollen sleeves or hourglass silhouettes to give her signature sense of femininity. As the collection progressed, the clothes got lighter and more sheer, with Rocha layering gauzy volumes over strict shirting. Craft always plays a strong part in any Rocha collection, but the pandemic restrictions, which pushed her show online, “made me want to create clothes that were really intricate,” or a ‘hyper’ version of her signature style. Winter roses were a recurring motif and she worked elaborate 3D versions in leather, silk and tulle. “My three graces,” she said.

These highly worked pieces helped her “push through the screen,” of a digital presentation and will be even more delightful come September when we can actually touch and feel them in real life. Things we can take away right now? Invest in lace tights and pair of stompy, platforms, brothel creepers shot of kick-ass prettiness. Along with the leather jackets, they were a great foil for Rocha’s soaring, romantic vision.

Photography by Jacob Lillis.