Monday 30th September

| BY Dino Bonacic

Thom Browne: Ready-To-Wear SS20

Billy Porter might have won the London Fashion Week street style game, but Marie Antoinette seems to be the accidental icon of the SS20 season. At Westwood and Bovan, bustles and panniers have part of the conversations for seasons. But now even Rei Kawakubo and Demna Gvasalia seem to be looking at the 18th century garments for construction inspiration. Sexy minimalism aside, the rich volumes and abundance of textiles seem to be the direction fashion is heading. And Thom Browne is right at the forefront of this rococo revival.

After his men’s SS20 show drawing the lines between sports uniforms and Antoinette’s wardrobe, the womenswear collection followed suit. The American trailblazer of true avant-garde fashion painted a poetic picture of a secret garden covered in pastel-hued seersucker, his peculiar muse parading between fellow royals and brit punks. The gowns are big and frayed, the tailored jackets snug and oversized at the same time. The tall powdered wigs are covered with veils, adding even more mysticism to the silhouette of this already abstract fantasy. And with the help of a pannier or two, we can all be a part of it…

Photographs by Jason Lloyd-Evans.