Friday 14th February

| BY Dino Bonacic

Yuhan Wang: Ready-to-wear AW20

The honourable spot of kicking off this season’s London Fashion Week went to Yuhan Wang, in her first solo show out of Fashion East. Wang’s show invites suggested a sombre tone, with “Funeral Notice” written across it. A heavy statement, especially with the presence of illness in current affairs also playing a big effect on the London Fashion Week. Several shows have been cancelled due to factory closures in China caused by Coronavirus, with Wang’s own collection being cut down due to production limitations. Of course, in the grand scheme of things, this might seem menial, but it is indeed a wake-up call reminding the industry of how fragile it can be in the face of nature.

However, all that didn’t stop Wang from delivering her strongest collection yet. The inspiration of mourning wasn’t tearful but instead celebrating the power of young, strong-minded women prepared to come face to face with sadness. Her signature – subversive ruched dresses – was now elevated into a full wardrobe including Victorian-style tailoring, brocade coats and separates. As the soundtrack from cult Hong Kong film ‘In The Mood for Love’ unravelled its dramatic tones, Wang showed her own ideas of grandeur, with soft pastel colours turning into sexy play of opaque and transparent. Miniature, embellished fish cross-body bags provided a bit of comedic relief to the mourning ceremony, assuring us not everything is as bad as it seems. In addition to her stunning debut, Wang has also just been announced as one of the 20 LVMH Prize finalists for 2020. And that’s what you call a good Friday!