WATCH: The World According to Virgil Abloh As We Capture His Debut Collection for Louis Vuitton
This is our first take on the new spring menswear collection by Virgil Abloh for Louis Vuitton. His debut show at Paris Fashion Week last June, dubbed by critics as a “watershed moment”, was so in many ways. Firstly, that “moment” was the cementing of what the 38-year-old talent had started to refine only five years earlier at his own label, Off-White, and a new proposition that aligns luxury with street. The spring collection framed high-end and handmade fabrics in a refreshing new way, and pushed back formality, to be replaced by a dynamic and pull-on modernity: the hoodies and relaxed pants; must-own sneakers and next-level bags with long fluoro porcelain chains attached, all seen here.
Formality reappraised for a new age and replaced by a more relevant and “no big ask” wardrobe for global travellers keen on the very new now. Abloh’s new vision sees equal importance between “the perfect vintage T-shirt” and “a cashmere sweater in brushed mohair”, he said after the standout show. This freeing-up of what constitutes luxury menswear – and the suit: roomier jackets and trousers – has ushered in a new and informal aesthetic. These are the kind of 21st-century clothes and bags that cause queues, as eager shoppers, a mix of die-hard Vuitton fans and a new wave – Abloh fanatics with dollar-heavy pockets – fight to own a piece of their hero’s incredible new collection. Luxury menswear has just changed forever.
Video by Nicoletta Kavvadia. Issue 49 of Ten Men is on newsstands now.
LOUIS VUITTON: THE REVOLUTION WILL NOT BE TELEVISED
Photographer Laurence Passera
Fashion editor Garth Spencer
Hair Kim Rance
Makeup Guy Common
Models Aaron Lewins, Tai Makessa and Sonny Round at Models 1, Omari Phipps at Premier, Jerome Tailor at Select, Marco Varcoe and Taylor Dacosta Goodridge at IMG
Casting Arianna Pradarelli and Laurence Passera
Photographer’s assistants Russel Higton and Amelia Karlsen
Fashion assistant Connie Lombaya
Hair assistants Anni Rademacher, Tomoko Fushimi, Laura Chadwick and Tom Vincent
Make-up assistant Elizabeth Perry
Digital operator Brian Cleaver
Shot at Shoreditch Studios
Thanks to Digital Light, Danny at Shoreditch Studios, Dan at Models 1, Dounia at Select and Andrew at IMG