Thursday 16th June

| BY Jack Moss

Watch Gosha’s New Film, First Shown In Florence Last Night

Gosha Film

Youth. Oh, how it radiated from Gosha Rubchinskiy’s SS17 show in Florence yesterday. You could practically smell it. Feet, deodorant, sweat, cigarette smoke, wafts of testosterone. That kind of thing. It was delicious. After the show, the audience was marched inside the cavernous, Manifattura Tabacchi, a brutalist building that was once a Tobacco Factory, where they were treated to a 17 minute-long, black-and-white film, entitled The Day of My Death, directed by Renata Litvinova, Russian director-slash-screenwriter-slash-actress, introduced to Rubchinskiy by mutual pal Lotta Volkova. Back to youth. In the film (alongside Litvinova and Volkova themselves), are a handful of Gosha’s boys – young, brooding, gangly, beautiful – dressed here in army uniforms and Soviet-esque caps.

“We were inspired by Pier Paolo Pasolini, his story, his poems, his films, and finally his murder, which has been sealed for 10 years,” Litvinova said to Vogue Runway. “His reputation was being blackened, and we decided to bring the justice back: Pier Paolo is a genius, an artist, who suffered for his principles.” Pier Paolo, for those of you not familiar, was a controversial, openly gay political figure in Rome during the 60s and 70s. By introducing Pasolini to Gosha’s world, the film becomes a kind of visual, aesthetic comparison between Mussolini’s Italy and Soviet Russia of the same period. Brutal, industrial, turbulent. With sex, cigarettes and occasional violence. May require multiple viewings. Watch it here: