Monday 6th June

| BY Jack Moss

Acne Studios: Resort 2017

Ever wondered what the spawn of a Grateful Dead member would look like? More specifically, a daughter? Well, like this, apparently. “I love the counterculture around the Grateful Dead and the Deadheads who followed them,” said Acne’s Creative Director, Jonny Johansson of Acne Studio’s latest Resort collection. “I got thinking about what the daughter of a Deadhead would wear today, her self-possessed attitude, the freedom and fluidity of her clothing, the complexity of the prints, the futuristic edge”. So what exactly does our next-gen Deadhead like to wear? Well, she’s modern. Utilitarian. Likes a pocket. A bit slouchy, but it a kind of wistful, romantic way. Eclectic. Artsy. Rebellious, but softened – slip dresses meet roomy, masculine outerwear, asymmetric layers, flared at the bottom with exposed crinolines. As the Press Release says, “fluid, soft, layered sensuality from generous pieces of draped fabrics, with a variety of prints, from tie-dye to oil-print.” And it’s these prints that hold the collection together, the kind-of bleeding, bleached tie-dye effect the result of a return to a more hands-on approach to design – Jonny dying the fabrics by hand and then digitally scanning them, a meeting of old processes and new technologies. Which basically surmises what Jonny obsessively tries to achieve – a delve back into subcultures past and the subsequent dragging of those ideas squarely into the present. As he says, “that’s what makes things interesting for us—we’re not going back”.