Monday 25th September

| BY Jack Moss

Agnona: Ready-to-wear SS18

Simon Holloway’s changing things up a bit this season – he’s got the whole Agnona mill at his disposable, so why not show off exactly what they can do? Which meant a move from neutrals to brilliant colour – an idea that came to him, lightning bolt-style, when he stood in front of a David Hockney painting – American Collectors – imagining what Marcia Weisman’s coloured kimono coat would look like cut from Agnona cloth. He started making links in his mind – at the same time as that portrait was being painted, Ilorini Mo, the founder of Agnona, was weaving double-faced white cashmere in the Italian mill – white cashmere is the only cashmere to pick up colour in intense, vivid tones. So this was an attempt to link the two, to bring his flight of imagination to life – the collection a rainbow-hued demonstration of luxury – from over-printed cashmere that echo the strokes of Hockney’s brush, colourful crepe de chine and silk jersey in shades of lemon yellow, raspberry and vivid blue. Those fabrics were looser than Holloway’s usual offering, moving in a sportier direction – jackets were cut like ponchos, trousers had a comfortable volume, silk jackets were cut like bombers. Sometimes change is good.

Photographs by Jason Lloyd-Evans