Thursday 13th May

| BY Claudia Croft

Alexander McQueen: Pre-fall 2021

Sarah Burton lays out codes of the brand so clearly that every piece thrills with that special McQueen DNA. Couture-level embroidery and cut sit alongside her signature, hybridised approach to design, a strong menswear influence and an unmistakable McQueen silhouette that embodies a powerful femininity. The pre-collection brings drama with cocoon-sleeved coats that are a cross between a mod parka and evening gowns. Another stunning coat melds a classic Crombie with a flight jacket.

Burton’s cutting skills are second to none. You won’t find a better-proportioned trouser suit or tux and she skilfully brings together a leather biker jacket and a denim jacket for a new take on classics. Voluminous flounced dresses in fresh pea-green, royal purple or lipstick-red, come in polyfaille – a remarkable, sustainable polyester that takes on vivid colours and brilliantly holds Burton’s soaring silhouettes. The Curve bag – one of the best new bag designs to emerge in recent years – comes in a fresh array of joyful colours. Just in time for re-opening, McQueen is serving powerful proportions and clothes with a true sense of occasion.

Photography courtesy of Alexander McQueen.