Wednesday 17th February

| BY Paul Toner

Anna Sui: Ready-to-wear AW21

Like most of us currently living on planet Doom’s Day, Anna Sui has her thoughts cast on the new world that will emerge post-pandemic. She’s always been a designer who works with escapism at the forefront of her mind, and for her AW21 collection, Sui has been constantly thinking of the “black-and-white to colour” moment we will experience once this hellish moment in history is over.

She began with Wonderwall, the 1968 film by Joe Massot which sees the dull life of a scientist suddenly turn bonkers when a swinging sixties model who’s a raging party animal, played by Jane Birken, moves in next door. The psychedelic, sixties garb worn in the film – designed by The Fool, who was also the brains behind The Beatles’ Apple Boutique – seepes right into the collection. Sui envisions a trippy world, one occupied with cowhide tunics, lacey rouched dresses and punchy purple frocks.

There’s a defiant sense of togetherness in the collection. Birdie Purl helped create the ombre knits, Anna Castellano bleached and hand-painted flared jeans and recycled tortoise glasses came courtesy of the brand Fellow Earthlings. After twelve months of intense separation, Sui is just looking forward to when we “join the party on the other side,” as written in her show notes. It’s safe to say she’s designed the right attire to do so.

Photography by Richie Davis.