Antonio Berardi: Ready-to-wear AW16
Remember Janet Jackson’s Rhythm Nation? Her backed by that army of dancers in tightly fitted, sharp shouldered, double breasted army inspired black? Well, Antonio Berardi was that. But rather than leather it came in suiting fabric, Italian macrame, delicate chantilly lace and chiffon. This was tough. Trousers were laced up the back, tops held together at the shoulder with lacing, exposing and at once revealing flashes of bare flesh. Jackets and masculine tailored tops were strapped tight across the body, fastened with silver press studs, creating a stream of silver across the torso. Delicate whisps of chiffon and lace were suspended in sheer layers from shoulders, scooped at the back to reveal harness, adding a softer, feminine edge to the tough masculinity of the tailoring. As the press notes said, this is a new assertiveness. She’s slightly darker with a tougher edge. “She is strong, she is confident, she is severe: she is making herself heard”.
Photographs by Jason Lloyd-Evans