Thursday 22nd June

| BY Jack Moss

Antonio Berardi: Resort 2018

Question: what’s better than one Antonio Berardi girl? Answer: two of them. Duh. Two Berardi girls, enacting what looks to be some sort of contemporary dance number. It’s very modern. Naturally they, and by they I am referring to models Lina Hoss and Lorena Maraschi are outfitted entirely in Antonio Berardi – specifically, his Resort 2018 collection which descended upon the internet today and is, unsurprisingly, really quite brilliant. I want to say there’s a fullness to this. Berardi is a master of those clothes that trace the lines of the female form, but here was a slight departure – the clothes coming away from the body into this feminine silhouette – short, voluminous dresses, almost babydoll-like in the way they flare towards the hem, fell away into ruffles, ruffles that also run along the yoke and down the chest.

That volume also came through in layers of sheer, pleated fabric, or the recurring handkerchief hemline that Mr Berardi’s played with over the last couple of seasons. It gave this sense of excess, taking nods from traditional couture but balancing that overwhelming femininity with the his incredible knack for tailoring – those perfectly tailored jackets of his came here with peek-a-book sheer panels, or flared into a peplum at the hem. A nice section of tailoring in a Herringbone-esque fabric too – the star being the trouser which sat high on the waist and fastened with big golden buckles on each side. He finishes with the ultra-feminine – pastel gingham, here amplified in size, and making up girlish strapless dresses that echoed that earlier baby doll cut. Touches of broderie, a bridal moment, more ruffles – this is fantasy dressing, Mr Berardi style.