Tuesday 28th September

| BY Claudia Croft

Burberry: Ready-to-Wear SS22

Riccardo Tisci has been thinking about ‘Animal Instincts’. As well as wearing eye-catching deconstructed variations on the iconic trench, his models also sported prosthetic Bambi ears – like the Sweet Tooth half-human/half-animal hybrids. Alongside the striking silhouettes – spliced, fluttering, teeny-tiny or oversized – they created a surreal, look. That uninhibited, strange-but-familiar, dream-like state was what Tisci was aiming for. “To me, this presentation really represents the freedom of our imaginations: how we dream to come alive,” he said. 

His models walked through a series of room sets – one piled high with glittering sand, another lined with compressed Burberry trench coats – in fits that ranged from boxy sleeveless blazers, trenches cut-away at the shoulders or long-at-the-front but short-at-the-back to reveal swimwear, glittering crystal onesies, leggings in technical fabrics with peep-holes at the thigh, fluttering capelets and graphic camouflage prints. A plethora of different moods were catered for, many possible permutations of identity. 

“It’s that idea of flicking between the endless realities and fantasies we have at our fingertips each day,” said the designer who dedicated the collection to his beloved mother, who died, aged 92, at the end of August. The lucid dreaming approach worked. Tisci’s animal instincts always lean towards great cuts and clothes laced with sexuality. This was a strong collection full of covetable and interesting pieces, with Tisci fully flexing his design muscles at the heritage house.

Photography courtesy of Burberry.