Wednesday 24th January

| BY Roxy Lola

Chanel: Couture SS18

There’s something constant and enduring about a garden. It’s manicured, but within its structure there’s an epic sense of chaos. Wild at heart. Just like Karl’s Chanel. You never know what to expect at the Grand Palais, it’s a closely guarded secret but each time Karl Lagerfeld makes his mark.

Today, we were in the heart of his Chanel. There’s the escapism of the garden, the formality and yet the natural discord of growth and life, recreating what he loves. There was a nobility about this collection, the mobility of that Lesage tweed and the always inherent couture sensibility. We must ask, has Karl been listening to Alanis Morissette? She sings, “What it all comes down to, is that everything is going to be quite alright. Cause I’ve got one hand in my pocket and the other one is flicking a cigarette.” Close enough. Pockets, so simple yet so ingenious. Often overlooked but vital. No need for a handbag.

This was the epitome of 2018 couture, specifically the Mica Argañaraz jumpsuit look. The good stuff. We loved veils for the drama, the mid calf boots, très très chic, with their refined wedges. All so subtle in the hands of the ateliers. Well versed. There was pleated, tiered mousseline, bias cut chiffon combined with duchess satin to give us a little bit of structure on top of all the softness. Frothing feathers and shimmering paillettes on overload. And so these clothes will stay with us forever (until the next show). A distillation of Karl’s greatness.

Photographs by Jason Lloyd-Evans